Bye, love! In fact, after London comes Milan, and this season we were treated to a plethora of high-end fashion at the city’s SS23 menswear week. From elevated normcore at Prada to maximalist exuberance at Versace, wacky visual puns at JW Anderson, and the rise of bold young talent like Magliano, this was a season when Milanese menswear, which can sometimes err predictable, felt particularly varied, with a sense of fresh creative energy palpable in the air. Here, we tell you all the details of what happened in the most stylish city in Italy.
Images courtesy of gorunway.com
Emporio Armani
One of the qualities that has most clearly characterized the SS23 menswear collections we’ve seen so far is a joyous sense of optimism, an ease that feels like a counterpoint to the more fearsome spirit we saw for both SS22. That was what characterized Emporio Armani, who delivered a collection that deftly draws a line between urban sophistication and vacation-ready nonchalance. The crispness of lightweight wool blazers was offset by flowy, wide-leg pants that floated with every step, while slash cuts and playfully pulled collars brought a measure of hot-boy summer sexiness to the mix. An artisanal sensibility influenced jacquards and prints from sky to navy that had the free feel of spontaneous brushwork, as well as heavy, crocheted moments. sailor knitted fabrics, all offset by sporty tracksuits in contrasting tones. While the note on which the show closed – a Caucasian male model with long, matted dreadlocks, dancing down the runway to a reggae soundtrack – felt a bit dated, it was otherwise an eminently contemporary show for summer. what was coming
Fendi
Holidays. It’s a topic you’re likely to hear a lot about during the SS23 season, with, as you’ve probably seen if you’ve been in an airport lately, everyone seems to have caught the mass travel bug. No less affected than the rest of us, of course, are the designers, with the prospect of not only having to dream of flying, but being able to, offering a flurry of holiday clothing to usher in. this new era of free travel. That was certainly the feeling that pervaded the men’s collection that Silvia Venturini Fendi presented today in a Milan so scorching that it felt like a tropical place in itself. “Tackling summer attire as a round-the-world ticket to vacation destinations near and far,” as the show notes, was a body of work imbued with a breeze the joy of living. Bare-chested boys in bucket hats sported boxy, long-lined blazers with peak lapels in sand beige and Mediterranean blue, who also wore loose-fitting wide-leg wool pants and loose-fitting kaftans decorated with embroidered floral embroidery that added a touch of style. cheerful touch of kitsch. Head here for the full review.
Images courtesy of gorunway.com
jordanluca
It could be argued that self-sabotage is a fundamental human value. As we travel down the road of life, the ones who most often put up obstacles are, well, ourselves. That was the point from which Jordan Bowden and Luca Marchetto started this season with their decadently moody collection, titled ‘Sabotage’. Inspired by the Freudian notion of the “death drive,” the counterintuitive impulse that drives us to make, what many would say, are all the wrong choices, Etiquette London explored why we’re all so compelled to screw things up for ourselves. by ourselves. , like moths drawn to a flame. One thing the duo certainly didn’t screw up, though, was the clothes themselves. Tailoring and outerwear was proportionately boxy and expertly crafted, with gigantic horizontal slits running from sleeve to sleeve held together by gleaming metal zippers. Garments were sometimes designed with the zippers open, causing the sleeves to flare out at the biceps. Elsewhere, jeans were brutally worn and the brand’s signature pants, a slightly gothic silhouette with bottom-heavy bottoms, trailed on the floor, all serving as visual codes for the collection’s contemplative theme.
versace
Let’s get one thing straight: Versace isn’t just a brand, it’s a whole fucking lifestyle! It’s a fact you soon realize when you attend one of the house shows, staged in the sprawling garden of the Milanese palazzo he calls home. While the usual clique of press, buyers and company. attending what was their first men’s show in three years, the most notable attendees were die-hard fans who showed up in full force, dressed from head to toe in decadent silks patterned with Versace’s trademark cheeky Greco-Roman-inspired prints. Head here for the full review!
Images courtesy of gorunway.com
magliano
Bringing fashion to a dilapidated building located next to a municipal landfill on the outskirts of Milan at 10am is, of course, a risky choice, but Luchino Magliano, the eponymous founder of one of the busiest young menswear brands from Milan, was ready to do it. drink. Fortunately, it paid off with her emotionally rich presentation easily among the highlights of the week. Along a glass catwalk installed before artfully assembled vintage benches and chairs, a remarkably diverse cast of models (especially for the notoriously institutional Milan) strolled and lingered in the decrepit space, like ghosts from their past. The clothes they wore have a similar spectral feel to them: shirts were covered in satin and lined with cobwebs, or randomly wrapped, knotted, and cinched; the pants had a subtly bulging proportion, and the oversized suits fell off the shoulders. The looks’ earthy palette contributed to the quiet melancholy that seemed to linger in this season’s offering, though it wouldn’t be entirely correct to say that it culminated in a sense of sadness. Rather, what was on display here was a sure display of emotional rawness, something that made itself felt in the collection’s rough edges, abundant textures, and garments like a heartbreak memorabilia sweater and denim jeans. blue with dirt-stained knees. . Milan isn’t necessarily a city known for its emerging talents, but Magliano is doing a very good job of showing why maybe that should change.
prada
In fashion, framing is everything: a change in the context in which you see a particular look or garment can drastically affect the way you perceive it. It was noteworthy, then, that upon entering the Deposito de la Fondazione Prada for the house’s SS23 menswear show, guests were greeted by a large room with white wallpaper walls, accented with red gingham curtains. Devoid of distractions, it offered a clean and clear space for the clothes to speak for themselves. Read the full post here.
Images courtesy of gorunway.com
moschino
On the second day of Milan Men’s Fashion Week, Jeremy Scott championed the renaissance of fashion illustration that we’ve been seeing a lot on the catwalks of late, in a presentation that paid tribute to the life and work of artist and photographer Tony Viramontes. . Best known for his bold and brilliant work in the early 1980s, as well as his contribution to Ray Petri’s Buffalo styling movement, a seminal moment in fashion history and a guiding factor in what has shaped fashion. fashion image today. among the long list of creatives lost too soon to the AIDS crisis of the late 1980s, gone before they could get their due credit. Jeremy’s Moschino menswear collection, then, was an attempt to posthumously give Tony his flowers and introduce his work to fresh eyes. Drawing inspiration from the bold palettes of his work, the suits were molded in a range of rainbow hues, with technicolor doodles and brilliant embroidery from Tony’s artwork. That camp feel was underpinned by the gritty punk of leather bakers caps, wrap skirts and calf boots, resulting in an appropriately full and overdue toast to an iconic artist.
Images courtesy of gorunway.com
anderson
If there’s one thing to expect from a JW Anderson, it’s, you guessed it, the unexpected. As the undisputed king of high fashion extravagance, both in this eponymous brand and in his tenure at Loewe, Jonathan has cultivated a knack for fusing a fine-tuned sensibility for luxury ready-to-wear with left-field esotericism: very little of-everything-but-the-kitchen-sink. This season, at the brand’s postponed Milan show, the scope of Jonathan’s object-based approach expanded to sweaters with built-in skateboards; striped jerseys slung ungainly over bicycle handlebar ‘necklaces’, for lack of a better description; square tees were punched with peeled-off tin can lid snips and reattached with door hinges. While the punchline to these portable puns remained intentionally enigmatic: “Why?” one statement said, “only the viewer can tell, and maybe there’s no reason for that,” but they were bolstered by a hefty offering of clothing that made clear sense. An intriguingly distressed intarsia sweater with distorted QR code motifs throughout; sweaters and shoes with an “insolent” self-portrait of Rembrandt, the old Dutch master; trompe l’oeil slip dresses with cut-off denim jeans appliquéd at the top half; and, in what are sure to be instant bestsellers, brilliant riffs from JW Anderson’s acclaimed bumper bags.
Images courtesy of gorunway.com
Giorgio Armani
Opening the final day of Milan Men’s Fashion Week was one of the city’s biggest stalwarts: Giorgio Armani. For his latest collection for the luxury menswear arm of his empire, he presented a collection that reveled in the house’s ’90s signatures that archive-hungry Gen-Zers are now rediscovering: spacious tailoring and satin that transmits a more sensual masculinity than much. Italian suit. Gloomy yet structured silhouettes were featured in stone gray and soft sky and Mediterranean blues, and were worn with fine-knit sweaters in geometric poppy patterns, while hints of eccentricity colored royal purple jackets and delicately patterned silk shirts. of giant trees and logos.
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Source: i-d.vice.com