Historically, when it comes to men’s fashion, changes have come at a slow pace: the switch from flats to pleats took nearly a decade. But in recent seasons, menswear collections have started to evolve at a much faster speed, and male sexiness is coming into more focus.
That was one of the main talking points during the spring 2023 season. Gen Z’s liberation movement through genderless street looks (a sea of playful crop tops and see-throughs) and some very influential moments on the carpet. red from stars like Timothée Chalamet and Lil Nas X have definitely permeated the fashion subconscious, and it’s about time. .
Thom Browne has been playing around with genderless fashion for a few years now. When Oscar Isaac hit some red carpets this year in Thom Browne skirt suits, no one blinked. But his spring 2023 collection was truly revolutionary by menswear standards. “The collection Thom Browne showed on Sunday night was one of the most inspiring of the week, with the designer feeling freer and wilder than ever,” WWD’s Samantha Conti wrote in her fashion review.
The collection featured an interesting contrast between his choices of traditional suits, briefcases and coats, all covered in his signature spring tweed, with very low-rise trousers, cropped tops and visible jockstraps, resulting in a new, provocative and modern silhouette. which had everyone buzzing after the show.
“I thought, why not? The quality, gameplay, and proportion were so much fun, and I wanted to push it. I think it’s time for people to start pushing it a little bit more. Even with the fabrics and tailoring, the boys looked really masculine. I think it’s important that we all recognize the world we live in and how much more evolved everyone is, in a way,” Browne said.
Another brand that played with proportions to allow for a provocative and genderless message was the young and influential brand EgonLab. Ultra-short leather shorts paired with oversized blazers, sheer ensembles and some shirtless looks added a youthful perspective to the trend.
“I feel more and more free, so I want to explore more and more. Courrèges’ image has always been a bit stiff, said designer Nicolas Di Felice. Her designs with cutouts in the chest area and t-shirts that curled sensually around the body were clear examples of that exploration. And by adding accessories, including mother of pearl jewelry and tall neoprene boots, the result was sexy and cool.
A barely-there tank top opening look at Rick Owens, open-knit sweaters at Louis Vuitton, mesh cropped shirts at Celine, and sheer details at John Elliott, Dior Homme, and Louis Gabriel Nouchi, to name a few, were the main elements. of this ongoing conversation. which resulted in one of the most provocative trends of the season.
Source: wwd.com