In a Milan season based on real and accessible menswear, premium and luxury brands continued to offer wardrobe-building collections based on high-end pieces to easily mix and match, honing their bottom-down tailoring skills and offering many fabrics as props for striking outerwear. .
A slow ear, the latter category under the Incotex brand was expanded to include five new cuts, including double-pleat and flat-front versions, a silhouette intended for greater comfort and practicality, a growing need for all customers, including those who wear tight pants à la Prada. Crafted in micro-calibrated corduroy, they were paired with Zanone fabrics, including Bauhaus-inspired intarsia crewnecks, made in collaboration with Milan-based design studio La Tigre. The season’s outerwear stars, field jackets and shirts, were reinterpreted by Montedoro in waterproof flannel, coated cotton and technical cotton drawing from an archival silhouette designed by Walter Albini for the label in the late from the 70’s
Slowear Men Fall 2023
Courtesy of Slowear
Overshirts were in fashion in tagliatore, too. The brand worked its black color palette with touches of peacock blue and turmeric yellow in madras and checked overshirts, combined with plush fabrics. Smocked coats and full-length coats complemented the range of outerwear, which played off the new pants, including a recurring ’70s flared look that featured on an aqua double-breasted suit and several of its bottoms. A capsule collection dedicated to eveningwear named after creative director Pino Lerario stood out for its subtle details, especially the flat, tapered pockets on a tuxedo blazer.
Tagliatore Men Fall 2023
Courtesy of Tagliatore
Knitwear remains the go-to layering garment, with soft, tactile designs that command attention. A luca larenza, the concise line included hand-knitted baby alpaca numbers with a cable knit pattern reminiscent of fishermen’s gear and a blue and orange patchwork turtleneck in which the designer mixed all his favorite stitches. Navy corduroy pants and wool cuffs with cargo pockets were Larenza staples to pair with an overshirt in creamy-yellow bouclé soft as whipped cream.
Luca Larenza Men Fall 2023
Courtesy of Luca Larenza
Among the standard bearer of discreet elegance, maximum dawn once again presented a stylish collection rooted in a sense of carelessness and individuality.
“What I like the most about my job is creating garments that are capable of making people feel comfortable. It all comes down to sharing. This collection revolves around the idea that our clothes really belong to everyone,” said Alba. “There is no such thing as a specific tribe or demographic that we aspire to speak to. It is the opposite of exclusivity. We oppose the concept of niche. I have always designed with real people in mind.”
Reflecting that approach, Alba played with wardrobe essentials cut in relaxed silhouettes and crafted with smooth textures. The smooth lines of the Sloop suit were rendered in pinstripe, Prince of Wales and corduroy options, and were paired with knitwear instead of shirts to enhance the laid-back attitude. She thinks turtlenecks, half-zip and scoop necks, all made from lightweight cashmere for comfort and warmth, and thicker knits in mohair, wool and alpaca.
Massimo Alba Men Fall 2023
Courtesy of Massimo Alba
A lardini, a trifecta of styles destined to fill all the gaps in a modern man’s wardrobe. Formal tailoring that the brand has dominated for years: check. A new ’80s rock spin on Lardini codes with the introduction of biker jackets: check. Monochromatic looks for every day: check, and particularly significant of that simplicity sought in the current approach to dressing. Available in monochrome shades of black, navy, grey, cream and army green, capes, coats, jackets, pants and knitwear were made for the perfect wardrobe builders.
Lardini Men Fall 2023
Courtesy of Lardini
A casual attitude intertwined with a western atmosphere in the boglioli fall 2023 collection, where corduroy suits took center stage and were paired with shirts and denim pants for a fresher take on tailoring. A champagne velvet double breasted suit was the highlight of the range and the must-have piece for the Boglioli man.
Boglioli Men Fall 2023
Courtesy of Boglioli
brett johnsonThe wardrobe idea is deeply rooted in relaxed silhouettes with a casual style and precious fabrics. For fall, he used superfine cashmere and virgin wool for coats and jackets, including technical options made from a blend of wool and silk and padded with fine fibers, and a €30,000 vicuña coat, the most expensive item in the collection. The US-based designer had his Milan atelier expand the range of 3D and tactile pattern knitting and tailoring with deconstructed blazers that nod to casual wear.
Brett Johnson Men Fall 2023
Courtesy of Brett Johnson
pal zileriMembers of the design team looked to the skies to introduce the “Universal Explorer” collection for fall. Rich in outerwear, the range included beautiful reversible bombers in sheepskin or lined with wool. The layers added depth and texture to the relaxed, versatile and functional collection. The jackets and suits were presented in cotton velvet treated with a special finish that gave it a lunar shine. A fitted coat showed off sharp shoulders with ’90s inspiration. Cashmere turtlenecks, flannel shirts and jacquard knits inspired by photos of planets completed the looks. The color palette was also inspired by the sky with shades of cobalt, Milky Way, Neptune blue, and clouds.
Pal Zileri Men Fall 2023
Courtesy of Pal Zileri
Making her runway debut at Milan Fashion Week, complete with a live violin performance, Shanghai Tang presented a streamlined collection, generous in proportions, contemporary in spirit and with subtle oriental details faithful to the brand’s roots in Hong Kong. Many loose, long, tailored jackets were fastened with frog clasps or tightly cinched. Ribbon scarves and embroidered starter motifs added energy to many outfits.
Shanghai Tang Men Fall 2023
Courtesy of Carlo Scarpato
A decidedly more informal atmosphere swept through the harmony and blaine collection, defined by bright colors that accentuate fabrics with striped and graphic patterns, and houndstooth jackets. A strong sustainability component informed fabric research, with eco-cashmere and traceable organic cotton and Fellex, a green fill fiber, lending warmth and breathability to layering garments.
Harmont & Blaine Men Fall 2023
Courtesy of Harmont & Blaine
A elevenvarsity jackets and varsity suits with cargo pants and bomber tops, as well as layered pinstripe suits beneath technical puffers, conjured up a preppy vibe as the brand continued to develop its tailoring and sportswear aesthetic. Blazers with softer shoulders and no padding, puffer jackets made from knitted jumpers, soft shearling pieces over double-breasted jackets and polo shirts.
Eleventy Men Fall 2023
Courtesy of Eleven
Source: news.google.com