Many would say that the best seat in the house at New York Fashion Week is in the front row. Seeing the latest looks of the season strutting down the runway among camera-ready celebrities, socialites, editors, influencers, and buyers has a certain appeal, and it’s quite an interesting social experiment to witness in real life. However, as someone who spent most of his career reporting behind the scenes, I’d say backstage offers an even better (unfiltered) view of the action. It’s also where the biggest names in the beauty world come into play.
Rock star hairstylists, makeup artists and nail artists descend on the Big Apple for a few high-pressure, fun-filled days and are crucial when it comes to making a designer’s dream come true. These professionals transform supermodels into everything from “human bouquets” (seen at SHAYNEOLIVER’s fall 2022 show) to “mushroom tripping aliens” (seen at Rodarte’s spring 2022 show) using their paints, enamels, and often secret potions. “Seeing something imagined in my head translated into models never gets old!” says makeup artist Pat McGrath, a fashion powerhouse with countless seasons under her belt.
While NYFW has been known to produce slightly more wearable beauty statements (at least compared to London, Milan, and Paris), there are still plenty of artists pushing boundaries and somehow still reinventing smoky eyes, ponytails and nude nails in new and exciting. ways. “New York is where it all begins,” adds McGrath. “Personally, I always look forward to fashion month because it’s a time when creativity is first and foremost on everyone’s mind.”
Ahead of the Spring/Summer 2023 shows, TZR highlights some of the backstage legends who have produced some of the most iconic looks to ever grace the runway.
Behind the scenes, McGrath is known by one name: “Mother.” (In other circles, she is a lady: the first make-up artist to be awarded the title by the Queen of England.) The legendary pro is undoubtedly the matriarch of the great fashion family and has been a staple at some of the biggest shows on the NYFW calendar since she curated Anna Sui’s Fall-Winter show in 1998. Always dressed in an all-black uniform with a matching headband, the force of unflinching beauty continually delivers jaw-dropping looks that are nothing short of makeup masterpieces. She expects to see feathers, flower petals, crystals, glitter, paillettes and, of course, makeup from her eponymous line, Pat McGrath Labs, used in the most fascinating and mind-blowing ways.
McGrath also told TZR that she’s particularly excited to see her brand’s latest collaboration with Supreme, a trio of black, white and red nail lacquers, “in the wild” this season. The polishes will be added to the bags of more than 60 professionals brimming with beauty treasures who travel with her around the world. The mother comes prepared, because everything she creates is, as McGrath likes to say, “important.”
Palau, one of McGrath’s main partners in crime, is a legend in his own right. During NYFW, the celebrity hairstylist is quiet and busy, crafting looks for the biggest names in fashion. He’s also one of the most versatile and prolific hairstylists in the game: he creates gravity-defying updos at Tomo Koizumi, high pigtails at Tory Burch, sleek braids at Proenza Schouler, and neon bowl cuts at Marc Jacobs. The man does it all with impeccable style: he brings to the world grunge (an aesthetic he helped define in the ’90s with his work for Calvin Klein), glamor and everything in between. He is also the mane master responsible for the supermodel’s hairstyles in “Freedom! ’90” and conceptual headpieces from “Savage Beauty”, the Alexander McQueen retrospective at the Met (he was one of the designer’s longtime collaborators). In short, Palau not only does his hair, but also shapes his story.
If you ever have the pleasure of interviewing Kendal at a fashion show, know that you have to get close to hear her explain the look in question. Instead of yelling about the chaos behind the scenes, the soft-spoken professional prefers to let her work speak for itself. Sometimes it’s a graphic neon eye (seen at Proenza Schouler’s spring 2022 show) or a Snuffleupagus-level whip (seen at Marc Jacobs’ fall 2021 show) screaming “Look. A. Me.” Other times, it’s a whisper of blush or a strategic swipe of sheer balm that delivers the perfect touch of glow. One thing that’s a constant in Kendal’s look is fresh, glowing skin (which is a big feat since models’ faces are painted and rubbed several times a day during NYFW.) Its unique blend of rosewater spray, moisturizer and concealer (strategically applied to be virtually unnoticeable) leaves even the supermodel luminous more sleep deprived.
For a long time, male hairdressers ruled behind the scenes at runway shows. Gilbert disbanded the boys’ club and paved the way for the many women who followed in his footsteps. Born in France, she brings a certain je ne sais quoi to the scene and weaves designer dreams into the most amazing braids, updos, waves and curls. In past seasons, Gilbert’s stunning looks at Rodarte made the show the most popular backstage entry in town for beauty editors. She transforms scraps of fabric, orchids, roses and even filler flowers (evidenced by the clouds of baby’s breath at the sisters’ Spring 2018 show) into the most exquisite hair accessories imaginable. No wonder Sofia Coppola commissioned the pro to craft Kirsten Dunst’s fantastical flakes for her 2006 film, Marie Antoinette. Like the French queen, Gilbert will go down in history; Fortunately, her decadent creations have nothing to do with cakes.
Choi pedaled her way into the hearts of fashion heavyweights (including photographer Steven Meisel and designer Marc Jacobs) with her warm personality, incredible work ethic and, of course, her impeccable manicures. Before the professional became the industry benchmark for all things nail, she began cycling to clients’ homes in New York City after immigrating from Korea with $400 in her pocket. . Since then, she’s launched a self-titled line of polishes, opened four self-titled nail spas, and created looks for countless runway shows. Models like Gigi Hadid, Kaia Gerber, and Gisele Bündchen happily pose for #JINstagrams not only because Choi is a backstage legend, but because she is quite possibly the kindest, most down-to-earth person in the business. This season, keep an eye out for minimalist nail art from the manicurist and amazing colors at Michael Kors, Brandon Maxwell, Peter Do and Fendi.
Redway works with some of the biggest names on the red carpet, including Lupita Nyong’o, Tessa Thompson and Lucy Boynton, but her early career was based on the catwalk. Before starring on shows like Christian Siriano and Fe Noel (both on her list this season), the Jamaican-born stylist helped out mainstays like Palau, Gilbert, Didier Malige and Eugene Soulemain. In fact, it was backstage at one of Palau’s shows that she realized that her lightning-fast braiding skills (which she perfected at age 11 by styling her classmates’ hair) set her apart from the rest of her crew. . At the time, Redway was also one of the few professionals who could execute looks on any hair type and texture, an aspect of the industry that she has worked diligently to change by advocating for more diversity behind the scenes and at all levels of the industry. fashion business. . Redway told TZR, “I’m trying to make sure that before I leave the industry I’ve created a safe space for other women of color to be able to perform at the same level, if not higher than me, and be able to have the respect and just have an easier time.”
It’s not unusual to see a supermodel go straight for Pecheux’s coveted backstage seat. The French makeup artist doesn’t just do makeup on one mannequin and move on to the next: he treats each runner to a facial massage that boosts her glow while alleviating NYFW-induced stress. His reassuring presence (and sense of humor) is also appreciated by tired journalists who take copious notes on his trademark technique. For more than three decades, Pecheux has created some of the most memorable beauty moments, from the Crayola-tinted eyelids at Oscar de la Renta to the ruby-gold lips at Brandon Maxwell. Regardless of what the professional is dreaming about behind the scenes, positive vibes are always an essential part of the look. Pecheux told The Cut: “When someone leaves my chair, I want them to leave with good energy.”
Pretty. Christian Naomi. Amber. Magnet. Cindy. Gisele. Karlie. Kendall. The list of one-name fashion wonders that Garren (another singular sensation) has transformed over the years is endless. The mane master is also responsible for some of Hollywood’s most shocking hair moments, working with the likes of Farrah Fawcett, Audrey Hepburn, Madonna, Lady Gaga and Victoria Beckham. In addition to creating iconic looks for runway shows, designer campaigns, and magazine covers, Garren has also mentored other legendary hairstylists, including the late Oribe. When he makes an appearance backstage with Anna Sui (one of his longtime collaborators) during NYFW, it’s a rare opportunity to see one of the OGs perform magic once again.
Growing up in an ashram, Westman was not allowed to wear makeup at home, which made him even more attractive. Once he experienced the forbidden fruit, which involved painting the faces of his classmates instead of his own, the makeup artist was hooked. Eventually his skills, refined at makeup schools in Paris and Los Angeles, caught the attention of famed Vogue editor Grace Coddington, whose seal of approval had a huge impact on the fashion world. Westman quickly became one of the most in-demand professionals, creating naturally radiant complexions (one of his signatures) at shows like Oscar de la Renta, Brock Collection, Khaite and Rag & Bone. She tapped into all of these behind-the-scenes experiences at a self-titled makeup line, Westman Atelier, giving everyone a chance to shine like a supermodel under the bright lights of NYFW. The professional is proof that breaking the rules has its benefits.
If Pecis isn’t getting calls from Chanel, Thom Browne, Altuzarra, Brock Collection, or Gabriela Hearst, it’s probably browsing. The professional, who hails from Northern California, has even produced a book (Noodled) that fuses his passion for hair with his love for the ocean, with proceeds going to Mission Blue to support marine conservation. In addition to crafting intricate braids, stunning updos and sea-swept waves for the biggest names on the fashion circuit, Pecis advocates for the environment in an industry known for generating waste, asking beauty brands and designers that they do better in front of the house and behind the scenes. While many still consider him a member of the “New Guard,” at least compared to many of the backstage fixtures on this list, he’s already made big waves with his flashy work.
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