Personality driven clothing is a passion for menswear along with a love of color.
By Asmita Aggarwal
Published: Thu 17 Nov 2022 19:17
Post-Covid, the world has been turning and with work-from-home culture taking precedence, an exciting segment has emerged: luxury streetwear. This has kindly urged men to finally say goodbye to ties, cufflinks, pocket squares, and staid, predictable grays and blues. According to Businesswire, the global menswear market was valued at USD 533.3 billion in 2021 and will reach USD 746.9 billion in 2027.
Activewear and athleisure will rule, says Raffaello Napoleone, founder of Pitti Uomo, the biggest men’s fashion fair that takes place in Italy twice a year. This is how Paul Smith marks it by launching a young line PS by Paul Smith with ergonomic cuts and Z Zegna by Ermenegildo Zegna, an athleisure line friendly to millennials.
At the recently concluded Arab Men’s Fashion Week, Lebanese designer Ahmed Amer showcased how dressing menswear in sporty fabrics is the future, using his talents as an illustrator to elevate understated ensembles. Dubai-based designer Zaid Farouki added hand painting with “I am Arab” on the clothing that bridged the gap between traditional and modern. Taking inspiration from Franz Kafka, French designer Louis Gabriel Nouchi offered track pants, played with volume and, of course, made sure white was omnipresent on the jerseys.
Internationally, Dior’s Kim Jones mixed sporty and urban looks, with knitwear, chevron stripes and corduroy, although what is stealing hearts is the “double denim”: jacket with matching jeans, just what Louis Vuitton offered for FW/22. This was followed by a darker shade of Kenzo and Moschino adding quilted patches to his beloved denim. Maverick Dries Van Noten added soft suits, minus the structure since men now work from their bedrooms, not boardrooms. However, hoodies and sweatpants remain the go-tos, as stretch and comfort are the mantra for machine-washable blazers. Some designers are daring enough to add Barbie pink to men’s wardrobes like Dolce & Gabbana, while Etro graced velvet for AW ’22, saying hello to shine.
Gucci suits are renewed
Menswear designer Pawan Sachdeva believes formal is now restricted to weddings and red carpets. “The young, working generation prefers athletic, oversized, anti-fit pieces: joggers, parallel pants, flared pants, three-quarter-sleeve tops, bold prints, and dropped shoulders for maximum comfort,” he adds.
He attributes the recent menswear revolution to social media and the inherent “selfie rage.” With the travel industry opening up after a two-year slump, the desire for relaxed clothing has multiplied exponentially. There has also been a marked shift in fabrics: soft linen, spandex, lycra, and cotton blends, mostly moving away from the heavy wool associated with this segment. Embroidered tuxedos, and this year, leather and leatherette have added to the bet, thanks to Sachdeva, following greats like Prada. “There is a gender neutrality taking over this space: checks and stripes are out of fashion, lace and see-through are in,” says Pawan.
Bolder prints, a mix of joggers and pants, sporty details, cut-out body prints, loose fits and varied lengths are also universally seen with what the coveted Gucci brand showcases with its fashion-forward designer Alessandro Michele at the helm. .
Men’s fashion, an unsaturated market, has undergone tectonic shifts with frenetic experimentation. With no set template, it’s this aspect that makes it super exciting. That is why in 2008, the Fashion Design Council of India started a men’s fashion week, with a three-day exhibition. It received a lukewarm response, says FDCI president Sunil Sethi, as the men were not ready to make the leap. “This year, at the LFWxFDCI fashion week in Mumbai, four menswear designers showcased their collection while this market is ringing the cash registers,” he explains. Sleeveless has been the norm with Erdem and his elegant vest styles are emerging as a strong trend, he adds. At Arab Men’s Fashion Week, the shift to tunics and capes was evident, courting capes as label Emergency Room told us to serenade sustainability with out-of-stock materials.
The fantastic Fendi put pearls on the men along with tiny bags and Shantanu Mehra from the brand Shantanu and Nikhil admits that military details, pleats and pins are now the best ingredients for menswear. “Sporty is the new elegance mixed with minimalism. Men want no-fuss clothing that allows them to transition from day to night and doesn’t require too many changes. They just want a few additions, like an interesting jacket for the evening, if they go out to dinner with friends,” says Shantanu.
SN of Shantanu and Nikhil
Now they’re daring enough to try capes, pins, badges, and have even woken up to typography on t-shirts or varsity jerseys (like Burberry and Rhude) as a form of self-expression. “There has been a culture of rebellion in menswear, with Gucci, Balenciaga and Prada driving street fashion. There is also a bit of irreverence in this uncluttered space, as the material explorations are consistent with attempts to find something that offers functionality and fun. Therefore, knitted fabrics are preferred and ‘liquid cotton’ that moves along the body providing unmatched comfort to the wearer, just like Ralph Lauren,” he adds.
Covid has changed the rules of the game: the briefcase has now been replaced by the backpack, duffel bags and shoulder bags, crossbody bags, baseball caps and beanies have given way to informality. The whole tonality is less masculine. “Everything has relaxed a bit,” says menswear designer Shyamal Shodhan. Men are willing to wear powdery pinks, mint greens and aspire to stand out. Take English songwriter and One Direction bandmate Harry Styles, who can be seen wearing skirts with jackets on the cover of US Vogue, photographed by Tyler Mitchell, channeling androgyny.
Most recently, American actor Timothee Chalamet made history by being the only male star to grace the cover of British Vogue in 106 years. Known for his unconventional fashion choices, he was photographed wearing a pearl necklace.
Style in menswear has become a trendsetter and the mastermind behind Styles’ look is the talented Harry Lambert, known for his fearless choices. So, you see styles in ruffled shirts, acid pants, sequined jumpsuits, faux fur boa, polka dot, and canary yellow pantsuits.
“Men are willing to take risks even on special occasions, so we have added oriental touches, collar variations, embroidered buttons and placket details. The wave is leaning towards clothes that can be worn separately,” says Shyamal. He confesses that for 10 years he has not given men ties, but rather a stole or scarf. The key is the change in psychology: they become very interested in what they would like to wear. “They are the ones who decide, not their wives, girlfriends or mothers”, he smiles.
Raghavendra Rathore studied womenswear at Parsons School of Design, USA, but when he started his journey in 1994, he soon realized a few years later that it was actually menswear that fascinated him. Seeing the predictable herringbone, plaid and heavy wool, she aspired to offer experimental garments with global appeal. She thus began the project of reviving the breeches and bandhgala, which is now a staple for men all over the world. Jeff Bezos loves to wear this silhouette, though from Paul Smith to Canali, many global design houses have discovered the power of the bandhgala.
Fawad Khan in a bandhgala in a still from Khubsoorat
“It is time for boat shoes, keds, a well-inverted shirt, softer materials like those used by Ermenegildo Zegna. It’s goodbye to structured looks in men’s fashion,” says Rathore. He believes that menswear is driven by personality, with men working for startups and from home rather than glass booths. “You can pair a Uniqlo T-shirt with a pair of Versace jeans in sustainable fabrics, ending the polyester culture,” he concludes.