The next big category in The Hunt for Activewear

People used to wear old sweatshirts to yoga classes. Then came Lululemon.

When it first appeared on the market two decades ago, the sportswear giant gained traction by focusing on yoga, then an untapped niche sport. Now, it’s a $6 billion empire that’s expanded beyond yoga to create clothing and accessories for sports like running, swimming, and tennis, too.

Lululemon’s track record has become a model for sportswear upstarts hoping to compete with Nike and Adidas by catering to a sport that is gaining momentum and has yet to be claimed by larger companies. Gymshark, for example, has done this with strength training, while Nobull made his mark on the CrossFit community. After two years of a global pandemic creating new recreational habits, sportswear brands big and small have been itching to identify the next big sport and jump in with the gear to go with it.

Some brands, like Rhone and Palmes Society, are expanding into already popular sports like golf and tennis. But others are finding opportunities in still-niche sports that don’t yet have established apparel giant partners.

BoF spoke with brands, retailers and sports industry experts to identify where they see the next big sportswear opportunities.

pickle

The fastest growing sport in the US, according to the Sports & Fitness Industry Association (SFIA), is pickleball, a combination of tennis, badminton and ping pong. Created in the 1960s, it is played on a smaller court than tennis and has historically attracted an older demographic as it requires less stamina. It skyrocketed during the pandemic, attracting 4.8 million gamers in the US last year, according to SFIA, up from 3.5 million in 2019.

“The sport is getting younger and has a lot of youthful energy,” said Lauren Mallon, senior director of marketing and strategic partnerships for tennis and pickleball at Fila. The brand has been creating pickleball clothing in various colors and patterns.

There are 267 percent more pickleball products in stock now than there was last year, according to Edited. Brands Mark and Graham and K Swiss, owned by William Sonoma, now sell a variety of pickleball bags, while Frances Valentine, Ssense and Anthropologie offer patterned rackets.

Pickleball apparel is similar to tennis apparel, but entrepreneurs like Aubri Steele, who launched the Civile pickleball brand last year, see an opportunity in pickleball-specific design. Civile sells tank tops, miniskirts, leggings, and visors marked with a green Supreme-like logo, and puns on catchphrases like “don’t be a jerk” (a quibble in the game).

“You can wear the same pair of leggings 85 percent of what you do, but it’s a tribe mentality,” Steele said. “Pickleball people tend to be completely consumed by the sport and are very proud to be part of the community.”

Mallon said there’s also an opportunity with pickleball-specific shoes, as “you’re very alert…with fast, quick lateral movements.” Fila, Nike and Asics have started selling pickleball shoes.

Fila pickleball shoes worn by professional pickleball player Lucy Kovalova. (Lucy Kovalova)

Racquet sports are gaining momentum all over the world. Padel, a racket sport similar to squash popular in South America and the Middle East, is growing rapidly in England and Italy. These sports, popular with private clubs, attract a public interested in teams, said Tom Cove, president and CEO of SFIA.

“It’s the health or tennis clubs that people generally want nicer … performance outfits,” he said. “If there’s a tournament at a local club or neighborhood, that drives players to want to be… perceived as real competitors.”

Ski

While brands like North Face and Moncler have long catered to ski enthusiasts, the world of luxury skiwear is expanding as interest in the sport grows. Last winter, the US ski industry saw a record 61 million visits, according to the National Ski Areas Association, while in Europe, sales at Swiss ski resorts rose 37 percent.

Skiing has long been considered a sport for wealthy, avid skiers who spend a lot on equipment. But with the sport welcoming plenty of newbies hoping to look stylish for Instagram, consumers want more fashion options. Sales of men’s skiwear jumped 30 percent last year at MatchesFashion, said Damien Paul, the site’s head of menswear. Farfetch’s skiwear assortment grew 192% in 2022, according to data from Edited, while Mytheresa’s new skiwear arrivals grew 32%.

Louis Vuitton’s skiwear collection, LV, launched in 2021. (Carlyn Jacobs)

“As the retro look has made a comeback, ski suits worked really well for us, especially those with feminine silhouettes and flattering solid colors,” said Lea Cranfield, director of buying and merchandising for Net-a-Porter.

Last winter saw skiwear collaborations between brands like Balmain and Rossignol; Prada and Aspen Skiing Company, which owns several ski resorts in Colorado; and Jil Sander and Arc’teryx. Louis Vuitton also introduced its first ski collection, LV Ski, selling padded jackets, leggings and boots. Upstart brands like Halfdays and Italic have launched ski apparel and accessories that are more inclusive with price points and marketing messages.

Industry insiders say the opportunity in skiwear extends beyond products for the slopes. Skiwear brand Heritage Fusalp, which posts about $40 million in annual sales and received an investment from Chanel heir David Wertheimer last month, is expanding its clothing offerings to include silhouettes that “can be worn on the city,” said Sophie Lacoste Dournel, owner of Fusalp. and board member.

Looks from the traditional ski brand Fusalp. (Courtesy)

At Net-a-Porter, customers bought fleece jumpsuits from We Norwegians and turtlenecks from Perfect Moment, “for lounging in the chalet,” Cranfield added.

“Customers are looking for … an after-dress and a travel outfit, as well as accessories to complete each look,” she said.

Rugby

For a long time, rugby has been considered a predominantly male game, favored by private schools and elite universities. But in recent years, the sport’s governing bodies have scrambled to reach new audiences and make rugby more accessible.

The United States now has the largest population of rugby fans, with 45 million active fans, according to a report by the governing group World Rugby and Nielsen. The United States is set to host the prestigious Rugby World Cup tournament for men in 2031 and for women in 2033, games that are sure to increase the popularity of the sport in the United States. Patrick Ouyi, director of Le Coq Sportif, a French sportswear company that makes high-performance clothing for rugby, said the United States is a “big focus” for the brand.

Rugby is also a high-growth category for Castore, a UK-based sportswear startup. Growing demand for rugby products was a factor in the brand surpassing 100 million pounds ($125 million) in revenue last year, according to co-founder Tom Beahon.

Rowing Blazers clothing brand rugby shirts. (Courtesy)

Many buyers also buy rugby clothing without any intention of playing the sport. Deliveries of shirts from Supreme, Palace and Jacquemus are often sold out and these stores have brought a cool factor to the sport. Asos has seen a 10 per cent year-on-year increase in rugby products such as polo shirts and sweatshirts, according to Edited. And at New York-based Rowing Blazers, rugby styles have improved significantly since the pandemic, said Jack Carlson, a former Olympic rower and archaeologist who founded Rowing Blazers in 2018.

“We think rugby will definitely have a residual impact of the clothing brand in the future because it has this continental style, a European brand that … people appreciate as cool and stylish,” said SFIA’s Cove.

Boxing

After gyms closed during the pandemic, boxing experienced a resurgence, thanks to the popularity of short, intense fitness classes. Studios like 1Rebel in the UK and Australia, and Rumble in the US have a cult following and have been opening more studios over the past year, where they sell their clothes.

The rise of boxing on YouTube, with social media stars like Jake Paul and KSI committing to professional boxing careers, has also attracted younger generations to the sport, while charity “fight night” events and tournaments white collar boxing have renewed interest in older adults. corporate settings, added SFIA’s Cove.

Free People Boxing Collection with Everlast. (Courtesy)

Brands from across the price spectrum are revealing their own versions of boxing gear. Lululemon sells men’s and women’s boxing training wraps and Alo Yoga also sells a variety of boxing equipment. In May, Urban Outfitters-owned womenswear brand Free People launched a collection featuring bright pink boxing gloves and a $200 satin boxing robe in collaboration with boxing gear maker Everlast. Celine, Dolce & Gabbana and JW Anderson all sell boxing-style shorts, and in February, Miu Miu launched a $1,550 boxing glove and backpack set as part of a sports capsule.

Still, brands know there’s a chance boxing, or any emerging sport, won’t grow big enough to become the next major sportswear category. At 1Rebel, apparel generates just over 5 percent of its revenue, said chief marketing officer Adam Wagner, but it’s also expanding into more general sporting goods designed for use in and out of the boxing studio.

“Activewear … supports the overall lifestyle of the people who attend our fitness classes,” said Angus Doyne-Ditmas, head of retail for 1Rebel.

Source: www.businessoffashion.com