Sybilla retrospective reflects on a four-decade career in fashion – WWD

LONDON — Resembling a lighthouse from the outside, Sala Canal de Isabel II, an exhibition hall in Madrid, Spain, highlights the work of native fashion designer Sybilla, who rose to fame in the 1980s with minimalist designs of Vanguard. .

The retrospective, titled “El hilo invisible”, is the designer’s largest exhibition to date, until January 15, and is curated by her friend Laura Cerrato Mera.

It will include more than 80 pieces of Sybilla’s designs, as well as catalogues, runway images, lavish invitations, press clippings and artifacts to illustrate the designer’s four-decade career.

The exhibition space is divided into five sections on five floors: “The Basting Thread”, “The Warp Thread”, “The Weft Thread”, “The Thread of Time” and “A Thread of Whispers”, to track Sybilla’s success.

“Preparing this exhibition under the direction of Laura Cerrato has forced me to evaluate and somehow streamline my work processes over the years, and through my conversations with her, she has helped me understand them,” says Sybilla.

The exhibition begins in the 1980s, when the designer was part of the countercultural movement La Movida Madrileña that took place after the death of dictator Francisco Franco in 1975. This is where Sybilla established her designs by sharing them with her community and began a collaboration of long standing with the photographers Javier Vallhonrat and Juan Gatti.

MADRID, SPAIN - 2022/10/01: Women's coat is displayed during the exhibition

“The Invisible Thread” at the Canal de Isabel II Hall.

SOPA/LightRocket images via Gett

Sybilla has always had a knack for architecture in her garments: on the second floor her practice of painting fabric and playing with sculpture and geometry is on display, which has expanded to bridal wear.

Sensuality and beauty are the theme of the third section, “The Weft Thread,” where Sybilla displays contrasting ideas, including angles and curves, rigidity and fluidity, black and color, and whimsy and simplicity in her “Airport” collection of 1989, and pieces from his Sybilla Noche line.

The Spanish designer was a leader in sustainability in the 1990s, working briefly for the Italian house of Capucci before taking a long hiatus to focus on craftsmanship and interiors, which are on display in “El hilo del tiempo.”

“A Thread of Whispers”, the final section, features a special video where Sybilla meditates on the eras of her career, the fashion industry, her aspirations and obsessions.

“It has not been easy for me, since everything I do is usually quite spontaneous and unconscious. I do what I like, what comes up at a given moment, and I am the first to be surprised by the results, ”she concludes.

Source: news.google.com