A relaxed suit silhouette, mostly shown shirtless, with soft structure at the shoulders and worn over flowy, voluminous pleated trousers emerged as the key tailoring trend for the spring season.
Mr. Armani, the creator of this softer look, delivered a powerful Giorgio Armani collection filled with slightly tailored suits perfect for the summer seasons. The fabulous wardrobe display came in white, beige and black colors and some were so lightly constructed that they looked like pajamas. Backstage after the show, Armani said he wanted to show “classic pieces” in a new style. Mission accomplished.
Young designer Hed Mayner presented a gender-fluid collection that included a fresh, youthful take on the traditional suit. This new tailoring option complemented his play of proportions from the other activewear pieces and outerwear options. “Ratio is about removing class, gender, status, whatever,” Mayner said backstage, who argued that it’s not really about being feminine or masculine. His inclusion effort resulted in one of the most directional outfits of the season.
American designer Mike Amiri’s spring collection deserved a thumbs up: a confident new take on American classics, patchwork handcrafted designs and some of the lightest suit constructions of spring 2023. Double-breasted blazers were as light as a pen that could be stuffed directly into the waistband of pants. Some of the pants themselves were convertibles, with buttons down the sides that could be undone “to put over sneakers,” Amiri said backstage, adding to the effort’s modern tailoring feel.
“What do men need today? And how can we evolve tailoring?” Ermenegildo Zegna creative director Alessandro Sartori wondered in a preliminary tour with WWD before the show. The result was a range of superlight suit silhouettes in powdery colours, including soft pinks and light oranges, with hints of sportswear and workwear details. Other pieces of tailoring included kimono-cut jackets, ethereal coats and double-breasted blazers, some with shirt collar details rather than lapels. Sartori’s journey of sartorial discovery has been one of experimentation and innovation, and his influence is evident.
Other trend highlights included: leisure-inspired summer suits at Hermès in gelato hues; Kim Jones’s fresh take on her signature side-button Tailleur Oblique, with smoothly constructed suit jackets featuring a layered lapel that resembles a pair of buttoned sleeves, and the effortless elegance of Officine’s ultra-fine cotton suits. General. All featured a modern take on the traditional men’s staple.
Source: wwd.com