After the spring 2023 season, there is no doubt that runway denim is here to stay. Canadian tuxedos, utility cargo jeans and slouchy styles that reference the early Aughs helped bring back denim’s casual-cool factor.
Denim appeared in many collections in all fashion cities. Kate Moss walking the Bottega Veneta show in what looked like a plaid flannel shirt and baggy jeans officially sounded the open season bell for smart-casual attire. In reality, the casual look was just cosmetic, as WWD’s Miles Socha discovered backstage after the show.
“It took a backstage scrum to learn that the very common-looking staples that opened the show, like the plaid shirt and jeans in Moss, were all made of leather. ‘Perverse banality’ designer Matthieu Blazy christened these items,” Socha wrote in his review.
But the message that the denim look is the casual-chic alternative for the spring season was clear.
Real denim ruled everywhere, but nothing screamed denim fever quite like Diesel, where designer Glen Martins broke the world record by putting on a 5,000-person show. In an exclusive sneak peek with WWD’s Sandra Salibian, the designer emphasized his democratic vision for bringing Diesel to the masses.
With Y2K in mind, the collection continued to demonstrate Martins masterful approach to denim construction and fabric manipulation. “Organza-woven denim with a bleached effect offered a summery, romantic take on Diesel’s forte, with the technique also replicated on an indigo knit dress. Tulle was layered on jean coats and pencil skirts and ripped to create a new way to deliver a worn effect, which evolved into fully cropped looks as the line progressed,” Salibian wrote in the show’s review.
Blumarine brought the denim trend to her undersea fantasy, adding to the “Little Mermaid” trend of the season. Givenchy played with extra light washes and a cargo pocket on the skater girl slouchy jean, a leading cut of the season.
In a more retro mood, Italian automaker-turned-fashion label Ferrari brought back acid-wash treatments to Canadian tuxedo ensembles. Versace also explored acid washes, but Donatella Versace went a step further by adding colored denim to the mix, like lime yellow and pink.
In a dressier take, Gabriela Hearst’s Chloé take on all-over denim included tailored trench coats, slouchy jean styles with lace-up embellishments, and sleek crop tops.
Source: news.google.com