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What you need to know: French couturier Thierry Mugler (1945-2022) established his eponymous label in the 1970s and quickly rose to fame for his innovative manufacturing techniques, daring silhouettes, and use of “glamazon” as a creative starting point for his collections. Opening November 18, 2022, the Brooklyn Museum presents Thierry Mugler: Couturissime, the first retrospective dedicated to the bold and theatrical designer. At the time of his death earlier this year, Mugler’s career followers knew him as designer, perfumer, photographer, artist and director, and this exhibition explores how the many facets of his creativity informed each other and allowed than forever -greater experimentation and aesthetic achievement. Organized by theme, the retrospective covers not only the historical evolution of his fashion design, but also his personal interests, including science fiction, nature, fantasy and eroticism. In addition, the exhibition examines the importance of fashion photography. Although Mugler shot many of his campaigns himself, allowing him to maintain complete creative control over his collection and its representation, his designs were also captured by a number of major photographers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Helmut Newton and Ellen von Unwerth, and his work too. . as his are included in the exhibition.
Because we like it: Whether worn by a celebrity on the red carpet or on the cover of Vogue, even casual fashionistas can immediately recognize Mugler’s creations, which are known for their dramatic and extravagant design. Her contributions to fashion cannot be underestimated. Mugler’s use of unusual and unexpected materials, such as vinyl, PVC, glass and chrome, to name a few, broadened the idea of what constitutes fashion. Her themed collections were comprehensive and involved a degree of world building that blurred the line between fashion and art and continue to inspire younger generations of artists and designers. And her polymathic approach to fashion led to era-defining aesthetics and iconic ensembles. Overall, the Thierry Mugler: Couturissime exhibition offers an invaluable opportunity to capture the magic and charisma that is Thierry Mugler.
According to the Museum: “The constant innovations, inventions and avant-garde architectural silhouettes in Mugler’s work have marked an era. His singular style found a place in fashion history that still has a powerful influence on today’s generation of couturiers, not only because of his designs, but also because of the strong message of inclusion, diversity and empowerment in his body of work. . Presenting the exhibition I created with him, in the city where he lived and loved so much, is the most beautiful tribute to celebrate the legacy of the man and the artist.”—Thierry-Maxime Loriot, exhibition curator.
These are some of the works presented in the exhibition.
Alan Strutt, Yasmin Le Bon, Palladium, London (1997). Evening Standard, October 1997. Fall/Winter 1997–98 Haute Couture Collection (“La Chimère”). © Alan Strut.
Ellen von Unwerth, Eva Herzigová, Italian Vogue (1992). Spring/Summer 1992 prêt-à-porter collection (“Les Cow-boys”). © Ellen von Unwerth.
Peter Knapp, Stern (1979). Autumn/Winter 1979–80 prêt-à-porter collection (“Spirale futuriste”). ©Peter Knapp.
Emilio Larson. Spring/Summer 1991 ready-to-wear collection (“Superstar Diana Ross”). Made in collaboration with Jean-Pierre Delcros. ©Emil Larsson.
Fritz Kok. Spring/Summer 1997 Haute Couture Collection (“Les Insectes”). © Fritz Kok.
Thierry Mugler: Couturissime is on view at the Brooklyn Museum from November 18, 2022 to May 7, 2022.
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