Seriously opulent, lavish and meticulously crafted fashion, jewelry and accessories by 100 Saudi Arabian designers will be highlighted beginning Tuesday at Iron23 event space in Manhattan’s Flatiron neighborhood.
Saudi designers, many considered emerging brands and selected from a field of 1,500, were challenged to create pieces expressly for the exhibition that reflected Saudi heritage and culture. The exhibition, called “Saudi Arabia’s 100 Brands Fashion Exhibition”, has been organized by the Saudi Fashion Commission. None of the 100 brands have been seen outside of Saudi Arabia so far.
The exhibition, which debuted in Riyadh late last year, is divided into eight different categories: ready-to-wear, modest, concept, premiere, demi-couture, bridal, handbags and jewelry. While ornate in terms of the heavy use of fabric, embroidery, laser cutting, color, and references to Saudi architecture and landscape, they are modest in that they cover the body. Long robes or “thobes”, long coats or “abaya” and large head covering scarves called “tarha” are on display. But there is a diversity of styles, with some streetwear (a hoodie and some shorts shown) and more fitted and fashion-forward designs.
“This exhibition does not have a commercial angle. It is meant to give visibility to the creativity of a region of the world that has never been exposed to the rest of the world,” Saudi Fashion Commission CEO Burak Cakmak told WWD in an interview at the expo. “It is open to anyone. It is a free event. You just have to register.”
The exhibit represents “the starting point for showing the level of creativity,” said Cakmak, a former dean of the Parsons School of Design. “Each of the brands is working on a wholesale collection. The idea is this fall, we will have wholesale collections available for retail sale. Most of these designers have never sold outside the country. Several have sold in the region; one or two internationally. The intention is to show the diverse range of products that are designed in the country, but also with the exhibition we challenge them to create a masterpiece, not intended as a retail piece, that projects their creativity and represents who they are”.
The intention is also to dispel misconceptions about fashion in Saudi Arabia and how people dress there.
From the Saudi 100 exhibition in New York.
Jared Siskin/PMC
Currently, no statistics are available on the size of the Saudi fashion industry, although the commission is gathering data to determine it, Cakmak said. “Local brands have ambitions to grow internationally and there is a huge appetite for international bands to come to Saudi Arabia,” he said.
“One thing people don’t realize is that life in Arabia includes all kinds of products. What is different from the rest of the world is what is public or what is private. That does not mean that all these products that you see in the West are not sold in the East. There is a different way of using the product, but each category is still very relevant in the region. There are no restrictions. It is really a personal journey for each consumer to decide how he wants to dress in and out of the house”.
The exhibit could travel to other cities, but that remains to be determined. To further help designers, the Saudi government has been setting up mentoring programs and bringing in consultants and experts from fashion houses and academics to guide them.
From the Saudi 100 exhibition in New York.
Jared Siskin/PMC/PMC
When asked if international politics could affect the level of acceptance of Saudi design by Americans, Cakmak replied: “The intention is to connect creative communities and build a bridge for designers with other creatives, designers and companies. At the end of the day, individual brands are very focused on building their own business, and we want to focus on the business side with them. This is ultimately letting the creatives shine and helping them grow their business without any other intent. When we see creatives engaging with the West, it doesn’t matter where they come from. You speak the same language. You’re focused on where your inspiration comes from, where the culture comes from, and how they influence each other.
“Saudi Arabia is on a growth path in all sectors, including fashion, and there are great opportunities for local entrepreneurs to build new businesses in all parts of the fashion value chain,” added Cakmak. “A strong fashion sector benefits from local creatives, design studios, marketing and communication agencies, manufacturers and retailers. And through programs like Saudi 100 Brands, we look forward to seeing Saudi designers take their rightful place on the world stage.”
The exhibition, which runs from July 26 to August 7, is open Monday through Wednesday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Thursday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Sunday from 12 p.m. to 6 p.m. at Iron23, 29 West 23rd St. Tickets can be reserved at saudi100brands.nyc.
From the Saudi fashion show in New York.
Jared Siskin/PMC
Source: wwd.com