MOSCOW (Reuters) – Beneath its dazzling facade, Russia’s haute couture industry faces an uncertain future.
Dozens of Western designer brands have left Russia as part of a backlash against Moscow’s decision to send troops to Ukraine, leaving their domestic competitors center stage.
But at the annual Moscow Fashion Week, which showcases the work of Russian designers, industry professionals said seizing such an opportunity would not be easy.
“We need to develop fabric production because our fabrics and accessories are all imported,” said Yulia Lavrichenko, a fashion stylist who participated in the event last week. “Unfortunately, our designers are suffering from this at the moment.”
Even Russian couturiers rely heavily on Italy to provide the exclusive materials used to dress their wealthy clientele.
And while China, Bangladesh, Belarus, and Turkey continue to provide mass-market clothing and materials to Russia, Italy is participating in European Union sanctions that make it very difficult to trade in luxury goods.
Olga Sinitsyna, whose brand SCORA designs hats and accessories, said her business was just emerging from the shock of the pandemic when Russia’s military campaign began, sending the ruble plummeting and import prices soaring.
Since then, the ruble has recovered, “but the logistics are 10 times more expensive,” he said, adding that he was left with no choice but to raise his prices.
“You have to understand that everything you see here is not made from Russian raw materials,” he said. “This, of course, affects the cost… But here the choice is either to do it or to cry and do nothing. I choose to do it.”
For designer Albina Akkulova, known for her fairytale-inspired dresses embroidered with beads and gold thread, increasing constraints will force designers to come up with creative solutions and innovators to put some of their energy into promoting a base of national fashion manufacturing.
“For Russia as a whole, these are new possibilities,” he said backstage after his brand’s show. “We will create something of our own, we will develop our own fashion industry.”
(Reuters Reporting; Editing by Kevin Liffey, William Maclean)
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