After his successful runway debut last September, all eyes were on Peter Do. And the co-winner of the 2020 LVMH Prize did not disappoint with his second appearance at New York Fashion Week. Witnessing his fall 2022 show at the Genesis House Korean cultural center was like stepping into one of James Turrell’s Ganzfeld installations—like stepping into a new dimension, that is.
As the venue lighting bathed the space in pleasing hues of ranunculus, peach, lavender, sky blue and seafoam green, the models walked with the languid gait of ’70s greats. Inspired choreography courtesy of Sigrid Lauren, who he also provided the motion direction for a certain viral Mugler video.
Do called the show “Foundation” and used the show notes to explain his vision for growth. She spent four years laying the foundation for her brand with quiet off-season dates with press and buyers, followed by last fall’s big moment in the spotlight with a collection titled “Home.” If it wasn’t already clear, she’s playing the long game. Last season, “we reclaimed our ‘Home’ in New York,” she wrote. “Now, it’s time to start. ‘Foundation’ lays the foundation for the house we intend to build. Focusing on innovation rather than novelty, the collection consolidates Peter Do’s essentials with signature silhouettes revisited from our inaugural collections, updated and refined with the knowledge we’ve learned over the last four years.”
In fact, the fall lineup featured plenty of examples of Do’s signature silhouettes: three- and four-piece suits with vests or skirts over pants in a mostly neutral color palette. She took the clean-cut American sportswear look into after-hours territory with a three-piece series that paired wide-leg pants, long vests tied to reveal a slice of navel, and a coat worn off the shoulders. Denim is also a new addition to the world of Peter Do, with two-tone washes and relaxed cuts cut through the thigh.
While it’s common for brands to have a show and then schedule appointments with buyers, when I spoke to Do about a month and a half before the show, he had already finished the collection and was preparing to sell it ahead of time. “We are very advanced and we are super organized,” he told me. “We don’t have to have a crazy moment the night before a show. We did that last season and we didn’t like being so rushed and stressed.” The results shown yesterday were proof positive that the race is slow and steady. “The great thing about having your own business is that you can do what works best for you,” he said.
Source: www.harpersbazaar.com