Of the “big four” fashion weeks, Milan has long boasted of its heritage, but it often pales in comparison to the youthful spirit of London, the high-octane energy of New York, or the grandeur of Paris. This season, however, there was a hint of something new in the air, and it smacked of rebellion.
While there were no overt political statements on the catwalks ahead of Sunday’s general election, the country’s creative class may well have been swayed by the impending reality of a far-right party on the cusp of victory.
Gaetano Pesce, the celebrated Italian architect and furniture designer who created the vibrant Bottega Veneta set on Saturday night, issued a forceful statement ahead of the brand’s show: “This space is a tribute to diversity,” he said of his Poured resin catwalk and hundreds of custom multicolored chairs.
“This is about being human; we are all different. People who say we are all the same, screw them! We are all different and this is our defining quality, otherwise we are just a copy.”
Days before the Bottega Veneta show, Diesel tried to democratize his normally exclusive event by breaking with tradition and inviting the public to attend the show, which hosted a whopping 5,000 people of whom 3,000 were non-industry guests.
And, in a carefree move, Dolce & Gabbana’s edgy self-referential video of Kim Kardashian eating a plate of spaghetti was defiant, to say the least.
A video of Kim Kardashian eating a plate of pasta played as models strutted down the Dolce & Gabbana catwalk. Credit: Dolce & Gabbana
Stefano Gabbana, Kim Kardashian and Domenico Dolce during the finale of the Dolce & Gabbana show. Credit: Daniele Venturelli/WireImage/Getty Images
The last time Dolce & Gabbana wore spaghetti as an accessory, in November 2018, the brand faced widespread accusations of racism. The promotional videos in question, which featured an Asian model struggling to eat the pasta with chopsticks, received so much backlash that the brand was forced to cancel its planned show in China.
Four years later, the familiar scene was repeated, with some significant edits, at the opening of the house’s Spring-Summer 2023 show. Before the models came out, a black-and-white film showed Kardashian eating a plate of spaghetti with a wry smile on her face. Was it a “sorry, not sorry” moment or an attempt to poke fun at the brand’s previous missteps? We may never know, but it was a rare acknowledgment of a controversy the label has been keeping quiet about.
This was the first Bally collection led by Rhuigi Villaseñor. Credit: Marco Mantovani/Getty Images
Elsewhere, designer debuts at Etro, Missoni, Ferragamo and Bally also breathed new energy into the week despite mixed reviews from critics.
Rebellion involves risk, and not all risks are worth it. From obnoxiously delayed shows to the many models who fell victim to the slip and slide that was the Roberto Cavali runway, the wheels came off on a number of occasions, but there was still plenty to celebrate throughout the week.
Ballroom Belle: Bottega Veneta
Matthieu Blazy’s second collection for Bottega Veneta was the undisputed triumph of the week. Combining womenswear and menswear, the stylish and thoughtful collection was filled with just about every item you could need in a wardrobe, from jeans and tank tops to suits and gorgeous cocktail dresses. Repeating a technical trick he first played with his debut collection, Blazy donned Kate Moss in seemingly simple jeans and a flannel shirt that were actually patterned leather. The final look of the show, a shimmering turquoise gown with abundant fringes, had the crowd cheering before the models returned for the regular show.
The Bottega Veneta set was a “tribute to diversity”, according to Italian architect designer Gaetano Pesce. Credit: Bottega Veneta
Kate Moss appeared at the Bottega Veneta show wearing trompe l’oeil leather pieces designed to look like flannel and denim. Credit: Estrop/Getty Images
The final look for the Bottega Veneta runway was a turquoise fringed dress. Credit: Estrop/Getty Images
Gothic goddesses in Versace
Donatella Versace delivered another remarkable highlight. “I’ve always loved a rebel,” she said in her show notes. “A self-confident, intelligent woman and a bit of a diva.” The Moody collection was a goth girl’s dream, in shades of purple and black, with lingerie-inspired minidresses, fringed leather, and lace-trimmed veils. In a subversive move at the end, Paris Hilton stormed the runway in a sequined fuchsia channeling the look and swagger of a rebellious Barbie.
Paris Hilton closed the Versace Spring-Summer 2023 show. Credit: Rosdiana Ciaravolo/WireImage/Getty Images
Bella Hadid made an appearance in a gothic purple veil and corset. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
Mesh, leather and lace details were the mainstays of the new Versace collection. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
Cool millennial at Fendi
Fashion’s obsession with the year 2000 is still going strong and Kim Jones’s latest collection, featuring Gen Z-fit leather and silk cargo pants, fluffy platform heels in highlighter green and leather mesh dresses, only further cemented it. more this notion. That said, a solid base layer in neutral tones offered plenty of options for women looking for more classic, grown-up looks.
The new Fendi collection was full of neutral tones. Credit: Tristan Fewings/Getty Images
The puffy platforms in a biting color stood out against the classic nude pieces. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
Fendi’s new season included elevated silk cargo pants. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
Inflatables to inflate at Moschino
Those looking for escapism can always rely on Moschino designs by Jeremy Scott for a sweet moment of lightness. This season was no different, though her playful collection was inspired by darker realities. Speaking to CNN Style behind the scenes, Scott said he was thinking of global concerns, such as the war in Ukraine, economic inflation and the ongoing assault on women’s rights, when creating the looks. His inflatable designs were an attempt to combat moodiness with literal buoyancy. “There’s so much negativity that we have to process,” he said, “but we have to make room for joy.”
Moschino’s designs focused on escapism and lightness. Credit: Justin Shin/Getty Images
The inflatables were a literal version of Scott’s desire to lift global spirits. Credit: Justin Shin/Getty Images
Prada is ahead
The partnership between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons took a step forward this season. The couple’s latest collection showcased a new symbiosis between the two highly regarded designers, who have been working together since Simons was named Prada’s co-creative director two years ago. A series of delicate, papery looks were absolutely captivating. And for anyone mourning the disappearance of skinny jeans, the many slim-fit pants signaled that you might not have long to wait before they’re back in rotation.
Prada presented a classic collection focused on refined basics. Credit: Daniele Venturelli/WireImage/Getty Images
Looks made from papery fabric added an ethereal element to the collection. Credit: Estrop/Getty Images
I keep scrolling for more from Milan Fashion Week.
“I want to take Missoni to 2022 while still respecting the past.”
Philip Grazioli
Filippo Grazioli’s Spring-Summer 2023 collection for Missoni was a slim edition of less than 50 pieces. Credit: Andreas Rentz/Getty Images
Filippo Grazioli was appointed creative director of Missoni in March of this year. Credit: Andreas Rentz/Getty Images
The looks drew inspiration from the Missoni archive, featuring the house’s iconic zig-zag prints cut in a bodycon fit. Credit: Andreas Rentz/Getty Images
It was a gender-inclusive runway at Jil Sander, who mixed men’s and women’s clothing for the first time in five years. Credit: Pietro D’Aprano/Getty Images
Metallic motifs were everywhere throughout Jil Sander Spring-Summer 2023. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
A detail shot of shoes from the latest Jill Sander collection. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
“By placing Swiss craftsmanship and the European art of living in harmony with my own American history, I have called this collection ECDYSIS1: A Reboot and a Celebration of Radical Luxury.”
Rhuigi Villasenor
The Roberto Cavalli collection was inspired by the old Hollywood glam of the 1940s. Credit: Stefania D’Alessandro/WireImage/Getty Images
Marco De Vincenzo’s debut show for Etro as the brand’s new creative director. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
Vincenzo had just one month to create Etro’s Spring-Summer 2023 collection. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
Maximillian Davis presented his first collection for Salvatore Ferragamo at the Catholic seminary in Milan. Credit: Jacopo Raule/Getty Images
Davis played with color and gradients. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Image
As well as monochrome looks. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
Top Image: Diesel Spring-Summer 2023 during Milan Fashion Week, 2022.
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