By COLLEEN BARRY, AP Fashion Journalist
MILAN (AP) — Flip-flops in denim, fringes and chunky rubber. Here are the elements of next year’s summer wardrobe emerging from the second Saturday of Milan Fashion Week menswear previews.
Temperatures in Milan were unusually high and the fashion crowd glided from show to show with the thermometer topping 34 C (93 F) and forecast to rise further in the coming days. That makes linen an easy sell, but less so for leather and even furs appearing on Milan’s Spring-Summer 2023 runways.
Milan fashion houses Fendi, Emporio Armani and Dolce&Gabbana sought to invoke joy with collections that invited a return to leisure and a few notes of nostalgia. Highlights of Saturday’s programs:
Political cartoons about world leaders
Political Cartoons
Versace reaches out to the next generation, reinventing the brand’s iconic Medusa in animated versions that seem to come to life as repeating patterns on silks. Call it baroque pop.
Donatella Versace returned to menswear with a fun and inventive collection, full of color and verve, which was shown in the courtyard of the fashion house’s headquarters in Milan. The mirrored pillars came to life, projecting images of classical statues.
In tune with the younger generation’s concern for the planet, Versace replaced exotic skins with neon-accented python prints, which appeared as trench coats or trousers, paired with striped-detailed oversized pieces. Leather looks designed with eco-sustainable latex were airy with a repeating diamond pattern.
Bright salmon, lemon yellow and orange highlighted exaggerated silhouettes that included silk shirts with playful next-generation Versace classic bust icons.
The new Versace man mixes design media, keeping the prized possessions of the Versace Home collection close: he wears a precious urn, hangs a cup of tea from his belt, wears a bent spoon on a bracelet.
Driving the target audience home, the runway featured the children of classic Versace models like Mark Vanderloo, Helena Christensen and Carla Bruni.
THE COUNTY OF MILAN TAKES A VICTORY LAP
Marcelo Burlon celebrated the tenth anniversary of his County of Milan label with an inclusive outdoor parade on an athletics track.
The location tied into the brand’s streetwear roots, opening with a graphic peace sign on an oversized sweatshirt and quickly changing moods to a pastel patchwork jacket and ruffled pants combo. cinched waist for him or for her.
Burlon says he likes to call his collection “adult urban staples.”
Burlon’s models covered a wider age range than usual, from a young girl in a dark suit with signature feather details, to a grey-haired male model in a matching patchwork tunic and sparkly pants topped with a suit jacket.
“I’ve always considered myself a cultural drifter, with a growing network of cool and creative people, and that includes people of all ages and from all backgrounds,” Burlon said. “I guess you could say my goal is a contemporary melting pot.”
Italian Olympic gold medalist sprinter Marcell Jacobs walked into the show wearing blue workman’s overalls. At the end of the show, the victory lap went to Burlon.
Silvia Venturini Fendi created earthy, grounded looks for a planet-conscious generation in hues ranging from soothing chambray to rich ochres, merging into a new motif created from images of planet Earth’s swirling weather patterns.
The collection had some nostalgia for more innocent times, from frayed hems on jeans to soft stitching on denim bags, embroidered details reminiscent of beaded daisy chains, and long, lush tassels on loafers. Bucket hats are cropped for a brim-like feel, while knit bell hats sport brims. The chunky rubber slip-ons were adorned with the inverted double F logo.
For a simple day look, denim pants with matching tonal knitwear were worn, paired with a distressed denim Fendi shopper with a long, fringed crossover strap. For the beach, there were linen shorts with soft zip-up jackets and sturdy-soled loafers. At the dressier end, cream-colored roomy Bermuda shorts paired with a camel jacket and an ocher zip-up back, with the cropped bucket hat.
The swirling patterns of Earth appeared on jacquard coats and knitwear and intarsia furs, and on a pair of baggy overalls. The bags included a combination of a canvas bag shaped like the word FENDI cut out in leather; a denim Peekaboo built in as an external holder for a water bottle and bright shoppers were made from recycled plastic.
“It’s about a balance between decoration and simplicity,” Venturini Fendi said in the show notes. “A timeless sense of freedom to play, as we rediscover the luxury of free time.”
DOLCE&GABBANA REVISITES PAST SEASONS
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana searched their archives for a new collection called “Reissue” that draws inspiration from the past, but is updated for the time being.
As if wiping the slate clean, the designers opened the show with a barefoot model in a white tank top and boxer shorts.
Dolce&Gabbana mixed distressed elements with tailored pieces for a high-low fashion appeal. The fashion house’s traditional lace blouses were updated with a distressed, dirty back, giving the otherwise dressier piece some streetwear credibility. Frayed jeans were worn with a black jacket and white shirt unbuttoned to the waist; As with the entire Re-edition collection, each piece carried a tag stating the original year of issue and the 2023 season update, for a dose of now and then.
Patchwork denim became statement pieces, with knee-high boots that looked like they were made from jean jackets paired with patchwork shorts, leaving just a glimpse of leg in the middle. A soft white fleece tracksuit gave way to familiar Dolce&Gabbana bling: a rose-print jacket covered in crystals, worn with ripped white jeans and rhinestone-covered velvet slippers. Footwear included furry slippers, canvas or macrame slippers with rope laces.
“I love the freedom of expression they have,” said hairstylist Apuje Kalu, who watched the show from the front row alongside NFL quarterback Tyrod Taylor and NBA players Rudy Gay, Jaren Jackson Jr. and Corey Kispert. “That use of color, texture and pattern, they’re not afraid to do it for men. You don’t always see that.”
THE SEALANDSCAPES OF EMPORIO ARMANI
Emporio Armani’s collection carried the carefree air of summer, from light shades of chambray to faded coral prints. The sense of the looks was that it is time to return to the simple pleasures.
Smooth shirts, vests and jackets, with dramatic lapels, stand-up collars or zipper details, were paired with streamlined shorts or pleated trousers, often with casual leg slits.
Beachier looks, including lace-up trousers and sheer knitwear, were completed with chunky rubber slip-ons, while more urbane and sophisticated looks, including a series of black and white mix-and-match suits, were paired with black pumps. thick sole.
Models of all colors wore their hair in braids, which the show notes said were “ironically exaggerated,” and perhaps intended to encapsulate the collection’s theme of a woven summer basket described by the fashion house as “full of surprises that brings the holiday spirit to the city.”
As if to underline the need for joy, a reggae dancer jaunted from the center of the stage to close the show.
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