Issued on: 06/20/2022 – 12:02
Paris (AFP) – It’s back to the old ways for men’s fashion week, which kicks off in Paris on Tuesday, with the latest pandemic-era restrictions lifted and the surprise return of Celine’s Hedi Slimane, who had previously called the shows “obsolete.” official fashion.
Even during previous waves of infections, fashion people were never particularly interested in seeing their makeup smudged by a mask or their parties limited by social distancing.
But with the latest restrictions on international travel lifted, this week will see the return of several big names, including American designers Tom Browne, known for his creative shows, and Givenchy’s Matthew Williams.
The biggest surprise, however, is the return of Slimane, creative director of Celine and one of the most influential figures in menswear in recent decades, who will close the week on Sunday.
Celine, one of the key brands within the LVMH group, was last featured as part of the official fashion calendar in February 2020, before Slimane dramatically announced that the traditional timetable was “obsolete” and “archaic”.
“These days, creating a sense of event and rarity seems more essential than a mandatory exercise at a fixed time,” he told Le Monde at the time, and has since been releasing men’s and women’s collections at his own pace, to Often with movies. filmed on luxurious sets in France.
The house did not respond to AFP’s query about its change of heart.
‘Rejoice’
In the run-up to the pandemic, there was a widespread feeling that the pace of the fashion calendar had spiraled out of control, both physically exhausting and environmentally damaging.
But two years of the pandemic left many eager to get back into the festive mood around fashion weeks.
Craig Green made a strong debut in Paris in January 2020 FRANCOIS GUILLOT AFP/Files
“We are very happy that Celine is back,” said Pascal Morand, director of the French Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion. “We have no other comment to make, other than rejoice.”
Meanwhile, in the ongoing debate over gender shows, Paris finds itself as something of a middle ground between London, which has eliminated the divide between male and female shows, and Milan, which has reasserted the divide out of fear to undermine traditionally male shows. -focused brands
“Paris will be a bit of both,” Morand said.
“The trend of genderless clothing created by streetwear and sportswear is profound and social, it is long-term.
“But the division between men and women still makes a lot of sense,” he added, especially as there is a real sense of “innovation and creativity” in menswear right now that warrants a dedicated showcase.
One example is Ami-Alexandre Mattiussi, who is expected to present a mixed show for men and women on Thursday.
The studio began as a modern menswear label in Paris, but also made its mark on the Cannes Film Festival red carpet, dressing Spanish icon Rossy de Palma and French icon Sophie Marceau.
Sophie Marceau wore Ami-Alexandre Mattiussi in Cannes last month CHRISTOPHE SIMON AFP/File
Other highlights this week include Marine Serre, who made his first appearance in men’s week, making a name for himself in womenswear with eco-friendly and recycled garments and innovative shows.
Louis Vuitton has yet to name a successor to Virgil Abloh, who died of cancer at the age of 41 in November, but this week it will unveil a collection created by its staff.
© 2022 AFP
Source: www.france24.com