Shop Small is a bi-weekly series spotlighting small business owners from diverse backgrounds. This series aims to go beyond your typical product roundup, diving into the inspiring stories behind some of our favorite brands. By taking a behind-the-scenes look at how their stores came to be and highlighting the products they (and their shoppers!) love, we hope to shine a deserved spotlight on these underserved business owners.
In 2010, Nina Zilka and David Krause, best friends and recent Pratt Institute graduates, did what many aspiring fashion designers do after graduation: They created their own fashion label. In particular, the couple focused on the use of vegan materials and local manufacturing.
Business was good until everything changed one vacation in 2011. Tired of searching in vain for skin and hair products that didn’t contain animal products, Zilka created her own custom dry shampoo in her spare time. The couple added the product to their site, expecting moderate results. A week later, they had sold more than 400 bottles. Zilka and Krause continued to add personal products, such as lip balms and other apothecary items, to the site until 2015, when they decided to shut down the fashion line entirely. The friends reintroduced their brand as Alder New York: an independent vegan skincare line designed for all ages and ethnicities.
Founders, Nina Zilka and David Krause, of Alder New York.
Alder New York
“Nina and I founded Alder New York because we wanted a personal care brand that we both wanted to use,” says Krause. “We wanted a brand that wasn’t hypergendered and used ingredients that worked for both skin types, and we couldn’t find that in 2015.”
Since operations began, Krause says Alder New York has fallen on hard times, especially since organic produce has become a major part of the mainstream market. But despite the increased competition, Alder New York isn’t going anywhere.
The secret behind their products
Alder New York says all of their products are “clean,” but what exactly does that mean? Krause explains it this way: “There is no standardized definition of clean beauty, but we work with the Environmental Working Group (EWG) and they verify our products based on their [safety] rules”.
Nearly all of Alder’s products are EWG Verified, and the few cleansers and moisturizers that aren’t are currently in the approval process. Because EWG approval can take months, the brand’s commitment to “clean” products doesn’t begin with an “okay” sign from EWG, but rather in the research and development process.
The pair spend weeks and sometimes months researching ingredients to determine if they “bioaccumulate in water, fish, food, or our bodies, [which can] disrupt our hormones,” Krause says. If an ingredient doesn’t meet this definition of clean, then Alder won’t use it.
The same goes for “vegan” ingredients. “Our products are not tested on animals and we do not use any ingredients derived from animals,” says Krause. “We work with Vegan Action, which is an organization that verifies that ingredients are not tested on animals and products are not tested on animals.”
Krause and Zilka choose ingredients only after researching studies in the scientific literature to determine if they meet their personal criteria: clean, vegan, and have been used on all ages, skin types, and tones.
When it comes to sustainability, Alder New York’s commitment doesn’t stop at product content; they also ensure that raw materials are sourced and manufactured locally and choose packaging from recycled materials as much as possible.
“Obviously the most sustainable product you can do is to have no product at all,” says Krause. “But we’re always working to make sure our ingredients and manufacturing processes have minimal impact on the environment. All of our paper products are certified by the Forest Stewardship Council and many of our cartons are made from 100% recycled content. As for our bottles, they have 30% post-consumer recycled plastic, which is the highest percentage we can get without the bottle ceasing to function as a model.”
Credit: Alder New York
Credit: Alder New York
Credit: Alder New York
Credit: Alder New York
Credit: Alder New York
Credit: Alder New York
What they have learned as business owners
Alder is genderless – their branding and marketing are not targeted to a specific audience, and that’s on purpose.
“I’ve always found the space of beauty to be hypergenre, and I didn’t feel present or represented [by it]“says Krause. “Working with my business partner who identifies as female, we both thought: Why isn’t there something that can attract us both? And that was really a huge catalyst for Alder. We wanted something that we could both wear and not feel judged by our gender identities or how we identify. That shaped the entire marketing identity and visual experience of our brand.”
While Krause and Zilka saw an open opportunity for genderless skin care, investors at the time weren’t as interested in bridging the gap in beauty representation. They had to do “a lot of convincing work as to why Alder New York was needed.”
So the two of them took it upon themselves and “got off the ground, self-funded, and raised a small round of capital from friends and family to get started,” says Krause. The end result was worth it, but along the way, Krause says he learned an important lesson: flexibility is everything.
“It hasn’t been easy, but we believe that the ‘slow and steady wins the race’ approach versus the ‘big venture capitalist’ approach has allowed us to be agile and responsive to our clients,” he says. “Half the battle of running a successful business is staying grounded even when the going gets tough.”
Also, he adds that it’s okay if the original plan fails. What matters is how you deal with obstacles as they arise: “I’ve learned that it’s important to be agile and be willing to change and adjust your plans. COVID has taught me not to be too valuable and to remember why I am doing what I am doing and not to stray from my values.”
Alder New York
What’s next for Alder New York?
Just as the co-founders moved their clothing brand into skincare, another transition is underway for Alder New York. The brand has started offering body care soaps, with the first launch being the Cleansing Body Bar. A derivative of Krause’s favorite daily cleanser, the body bar is formulated with 1% glycolic acid and nourishing seaweed. It’s a combination of ingredients designed to exfoliate and moisturize all in one, says Krause. Although it is the first body product of the brand, it will surely not be the last.
Developing more products is not the only goal Krause and Zilka have. The next step for Alder is retail expansion, and this fall, Alder products will be available at Shopbop. The goal is to put Alder into small retailers so customers can have an intimate relationship with the brand and understand its values and priorities as a skincare company.
Additionally, Krause adds that more retailers and warehouses mean less carbon footprint and lower prices. Currently, the lowest price point is $7.99 while the highest is $30.99. Krause understands that his prices can’t suit everyone, so by expanding his business, Alder will be able to lower prices and become more affordable for everyone.
Ultimately, the ultimate goal of Krause and Zilka will always be to support the customer. Krause simply wants his clients to feel good in his skin and believes that Alder is the means to do so.
“I want our customers to feel comfortable using Alder New York products and I want them to love their healthy, clear skin,” she says. “No matter how you identify, your level of skin care knowledge, your age or ethnicity, Alder New York is here for you.”
Alder New York
Melanie Curry (she/her) is an editorial assistant at Hearst Magazines where she does a little of everything in digital media. Her work has been featured in Men’s Health, InStyle, ELLE and more. When she’s not writing all day, she can be found sipping a cold beer at Starbucks, reading a romance novel, or binge-watching the trendiest show on Netflix.
Source: www.goodhousekeeping.com