From collaborations with Dickies, Harry Styles and Palace to the viral Spring/Summer 2023 sensation that was the “Twinsburg” show and, of course, its creative director Alessandro Michele announcing his departure from the House, 2022 was a big year for Gucci.
After seven years at the brand, Michele had returned Gucci to its former glory from the Tom Ford hay days; sex became entwined with heredity, flower power mixed with functional fashion, and even athleisure was explored under the then-CD’s rose-tinged nostalgic vision.
The results were extraordinary: people became fans of the House’s new identity, one punctuated with whimsical references (à la Harry Styles’ “HA HA HA”), while others favored the maximalist touch of glamor without Michele’s apologies. The muses were handpicked with an eye for millennial and Gen-Z influence: Billy Eilish, Styles, Miley Cyrus, Wet Leg, Florence Welch, Jared Leto and Lana Del Rey to name just a few, which in turn makes make the brand relevant. plus, to a crowd he had rarely reached before Michele’s appointment in 2015. With this came numbers to match; During Michele’s tenure, revenue nearly tripled from €3.9bn in 2015 to €9.7bn in 2021. In several periods, quarterly growth approached 50%.
So with this in mind, where is Gucci going next and how does it get there? Opening Milan Fashion Week.
Introducing its Fall/Winter 2023 collection at Milan Fashion Week’s menswear roundup, Gucci’s latest collection is actually one designed by an in-house design team that was closely linked to Michele. Think of it as a similar approach to recent Louis Vuitton collections, save for the upcoming one designed by Colm Dillane.
Combined, the team followed a spirit of improvisation. As the brand points out, “Improvisation is an act of collaboration. When the free impulses of individual minds intertwine, collective expressions are conceived.” With this comes reflection, and Gucci FW23 was nothing more than a walk through its history books, albeit recontextualized for today.
“Crystal GG”, a new lacquered canvas, was used on workwear such as overalls, as well as on the Maison’s signature bags and shoes. Those jumpsuits also feature cut-outs at the back, a nod to Tom Ford-era sex appeal that continued to seep into much of the collection. From cut-off knees on oversized suits to white tank tops that split at the neckline, there was a consistent thread of Ford influence. Reimagining the Piston Lock was another throwback to Ford, as were the leathers and biker coats that wouldn’t look bad in a Y2K campaign.
Sportswear numbers harken back to the 1980s with hot pink, satin blue and an equestrian-themed puffer jacket all acknowledging the Maison’s extensive archive of graphics and branding, while the cuts of each piece felt appropriate for today’s laid-back aesthetic. “Crystal GG” material-coated boots covered in the “GG” motif in a variety of soft hues like pink or the label’s signature tan, acting as the perfect rarity accent while holding up knit pajamas, jodhpurs and ski pants on the cuffs.
Of course, craftsmanship was an important component of the collection. The pants and tank tops sported an excess of sequins, which sparkled against the marching lights to the beat of a live performance by the rock band. Ceramic dog by Marc Ribot. Padded trench coats fell delicately and littered the carpet, while the structure of a leather and shearling jacket looked as if the model was clad in armor.
Overall, Gucci FW23 was a collection of the House’s greatest hits, delicately balanced to reflect the past and the transitions expected from the brand next time around. Gucci’s FW23 collection can be viewed in the gallery above.
Stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Milan Fashion Week AW23 content in the coming days.
Source: news.google.com