SAN FRANCISCO (KGO) — Filipino fashion and history are driving forces for many Filipino-American designers in the Bay Area.
Traditional Philippine clothing often conveys elegance and extravagance. And for many, the iconic exaggerated sleeve is not missing.
Barong Tagalog and Filipiniana Terno are just two types of Filipino traditional historical fashion. Each is typically designed as formal wear for special events.
However, there is a resurgence of sculpted suit sleeves in everyday clothing.
“Everything has a Spanish influence,” Chi Chai Mateo told ABC7 News. “But I will say that when people see our iteration of these big sleeves, they know it’s a Filipino dress or a top or whatever. So I definitely love that look.”
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Mateo is a full-time artist behind the Bay Area clothing brand Empire in the Air.
From sketches to someone’s wardrobe, the pieces combine Mateo’s love of art and fashion with Filipino American community and culture. His designs are intentional, Mateo has devoted much of his work to “pinays,” or Filipino women often depicted as landscapes.
“That’s a big part of my artistic style, because I think that women, especially, are powerful enough to embody a landscape,” she shared. “We provide and we give, but also, with that matapang face, we are asking for that respect to be returned to us.”
Matapang, which means brave or fierce. It is a deep meaning embodied for the purpose of education.
Mateo said she created Empire in the Air as a teenager and only developed a stronger intent to blend history into her designs in her mid-20s. She said that at that time, she started to really get involved in the discourse around colonization and the effects on Filipino Americans today.
She described having also written a master’s thesis on “how participating in works of art that are for us, by us, dismantles the colonial mentality.”
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Mateo mentioned many stereotypes about Filipino women surrounding them being docile and submissive. “I like to think that I’m taking control of that narrative and inspiring others to do the same,” he said.
It’s also a responsibility that she and other Fil-Am artists understand when they transform historical and traditional look and symbolism into the items they sell.
“I find it funny that we’re going crazy about our culture and history in a new, contemporary way,” Mateo told ABC7 News. “And in a way that is also relatable and accessible, and even aesthetic.”
“The idea of me wearing a T-shirt that says ‘Delano Manongs’ and people are like ‘What’s that?'” Michael Dalupo explained. “It’s an opportunity to have a conversation, to give insight into our collective experience as a community.”
Dalupo owns Ugat Clothing, an online store based in San Jose. Ugat means roots.
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He said that his business was born out of pure interest.
“It was 2009, Paquiao was winning, ABDC was going, Jabbawockeez,” Dalupo described. “So, there was a demand for Filipino culture.”
Dalupo said his designs took off, even without him fully understanding Filipino-American history or the cultural icons used.
He said that he is not a professional designer and that he collaborates with many artists.
However, that has changed. He has been dedicated to researching and expanding his knowledge for years. Now his catalog reflects the experiences, struggles and influences of Fil-Am.
“There’s a theme in terms of Philippine American History Month, there’s a collection of images depicting the I-Hotel, the International Hotel, the Delano Manongs,” he said of his clothing. “Whether it’s 1587 in Morro Bay, whether it’s the Manila men in Louisiana.”
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He said the easy part is putting the graphics on a t-shirt. As for the challenging part: “How do we get the youth and the community interested in the story?” he asked her.
Today, the themes of activism and advocacy are now worn with pride.
“The education system here may not reflect our experience. So it’s my passion and it’s imperative that I educate and continue to push this information and empower our community,” Dalupo shared.
Each item by these artists reflects the intersection of Filipino American history and culture, presented in a contemporary way.
“I just like to think, ‘Well, what is something I would wear? What would my community wear,'” Mateo mused, “but how can I elevate it with that nod to history?”
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