London is calling and the fashion world is bouncing back. This season, there’s a buzz for London fashion week that had perhaps faded in recent years as the industry, like the rest of the world, shifted to work around the pandemic and away from the fanfare of IRL and the celebration of the creativity that used to tear apart roars through the capital twice a year.
The upcoming spring/summer 2023 show season is set to return to form; a revival of a time when the schedule seemed jam-packed: a heady mix of freshly graduated upstarts and hardcore brands that has long made London Fashion Week special. Publishers, buyers and industry insiders can once again look forward to stepping from catwalk to showroom to witness first-hand the full breadth of creativity currently being cultivated in London at the six-day event, which will take place from Thursday 16 to Tuesday. September 20.
Nensi Dojaka FW22
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London once made a name for itself as the biggest incubator of young talent, thanks to brilliant support from initiatives like Fashion East, but London Fashion Week has always needed to rely on a bit of star power to ensure top buyers and publishers reach British soil. during September and February hours. Which is why, when in 2009, Christopher Bailey decided to bring Burberry (or Burberry Prorsum, as the runway collection was then called) back to London, there was a lot of excitement and top-notch charm that led to Kanye West and the Olsen twins to the immaculate marquee in the manicured grounds of Kensington Gardens.
Chet Lo, East Fashion
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And the same could be said for this season as well. Burberry, now under the helm of Riccardo Tisci, may look a bit different, but it still holds his place as London Fashion Week’s most powerful player. Already in 2022, there has been a 21% increase in revenue to £2.83 billion. After a few seasons dancing to the beat of his own drum (the last time he hosted his new legion of A-listers was in March, outside of official hours), he’s back in literal primetime at 6 p.m. on Saturday night. the night. It is anticipated that Tisci will continue her tide of putting a contemporary spin on the heritage house’s long-established codes once again, resulting in a line of supermodels who will drop everything and fly through the channels to appear before his dear friend, Riccardo.
Burberry isn’t the only highly anticipated return to the calendar. Enter: Jonathan Anderson. After lockdown-induced lookbooks and a spell at Paris Fashion Week, London’s wunderkind is back to where it all began by placing his JW Anderson show in the relatively late-night 8:00 slot. p.m. on Saturday. Anticipated to take place in a fascinating location in central London, very close to his Soho store, how has Anderson’s aesthetic evolved? Located at home, could this safe space allow his creativity to run wilder and more brilliantly than before, or will a return to the capital see him speaking about the pillars of British culture?
One such designer feeling the buzz and anticipated to reference much of London’s influence is Daniel W. Fletcher, who will open London Fashion Week with his show on Thursday the 16th. opening for spring/summer 2019, which was my first runway show, so this feels like a really special moment for me,” she tells ELLE. “The brand is in a really different place than it was back then, so I’m excited to show that evolution. The collection is kind of a celebration of my 10 years living in London and all the things I learned here, everyone who inspired me during that time, as well as those who came before to make London what it is today.
Daniel W. Fletcher AW22
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The opportunity that London Fashion Week provides by allowing more up-and-coming names to show up so close to stalwart legends is not lost on Fletcher. “The mix of emerging talent and traditional brands is something that makes LFW unique and this season there is such a strong mix of both. It has me (and everyone else by the looks of it) very excited.
Another big name on the calendar that you may not have anticipated seeing is Raf Simons. Prada’s co-creative director brings his stylish and beloved namesake label to the British capital, and with it the gentle elevation and confirmation that London, with Simons’ approval, is a fashion capital worth approaching. Nothing new for those of us at ELLE UK, of course.
It would also be remiss of us to overlook the wealth of brilliant brands that are no longer upstarts and shiny giants, but the proud purveyors of trusted business models and recognizable firms offering a more comprehensive proposition, many of which happen to be headed by women. bright. From Simone Rocha to Priya Ahluwalia, Roksanda to Emilia Wickstead, Rejina Pyo to Molly Goddard, many of London Fashion Week’s most exciting shows feature female names, including, for the first time this season, Chopova Lowena.
Molly Goddard AW22
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Rejina Pyo SS22
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Spring/Summer 2023 marks the first show for former CSM classmates Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena. His unique emotion is a reminder of how important it can be for a brand to show up on time. “We feel like it’s the first time that people can enter our world and see the moving clothes of some of our previous friends and collaborators,” they shared with ELLE. “It feels like an important step for our brand to showcase itself in this way and we are very excited to have it join. It will be a really special moment for us and we hope it will be for the public as well.” Expect this arriving crowd to be true street-style catnip as they wrap themselves in the brand’s signature folk tartan pieces and voluminous shapes.
Lowena Chopova
With six days of shows fast approaching, it’s safe to say we’re ready to get hooked once again on the brilliance of British fashion. Whether we’re sitting around waiting to see SS Daley’s first show after winning the LVMH Prize, admiring 16Arlington’s inevitably brilliant creations, or Chet Lo leaving the Fashion East hatchery solo for the first time, London will certainly prove its place on the map. of fashion .
Source: www.elle.com