From full-on fashion shows to cozy breakfasts, brands drew influences from disparate eras as they presented their collections during Paris Fashion Week.
Eagle
For its debut on the official calendar, Aigle presented a striking show at the top of the Pompidou Center on the last day of fashion week. It was a grand setting for the French outerwear brand as models walked around the rooftop fountain to show off the oversized raincoats, puddle boots and puffer jackets that are staples of the brand.
It was also the second collection for the trio behind the Études Studio brand, shown on the official calendar during Paris Men’s Week. Aurélien Arbet, Jérémie Égry and José Lamali joined the label in 2020 to add a new energy to the 170-year-old Aigle. The unusual approach is the re-release of iconic models, slightly updated for the modern urbanite with cargo shorts, classic blue work jackets and padded vests.
Outside of the muted color palette, one bright spot was a red, yellow, and blue plaid ensemble, complete with a pleated skirt, vest, raincoat, and baseball cap in the color scheme reminiscent of the colors in her collection. latest menswear, proving that they are putting their own stamp on the brand’s DNA. The collection elevated the utilitarian with prints, but remained rooted in the brand’s classics.
Courtesy of Eagle
claudia pielot
The classic French label reinvigorated its identity this season by updating the Parisian codes of trench coats, striped sweaters and dark denim. The maison, on the cusp of turning 40, dug into its archives for inspiration this season. Eyelet collars are ideal for wearing over sweater vests, wide-lapel blazers, and well-cut trousers.
The presentation was held in a traditional brasserie with the coat rack hanging between the marble bar and leather banquettes, displaying Christelle Yamabayisa’s photography, who captures the essence of yesterday’s Paris in today’s streets, as part of her support to young artists.
The collection predominantly stuck to the Parisian palette of navy blue, beige, black and white. There was a touch of pink in a skirt suit among the calming tones of the city, sunflower yellow in the striped shirts and delicate embroidery in the denim. Pierlot was also promoting its Anouk bag in new colours. Designed by a Paris-based studio team, the brand quietly introduced a new logo last season and doubled down on the interlocking CP, now on denim jackets, accessories and as panels on pleated trench coats, as it seeks to cement a recognizable identity among a sea of contemporary competition. They offered easy separations as it continues to evolve.
Courtesy of Claudie Pierlot
Kitsune House
Japanese brand Franco took inspiration from Los Angeles, California this year, traveling to the West Coast through a collaboration with Olympia Le-Tan for a third season. The designer blew up the hallways and walls of The Beverly Hills Hotel, with a capsule heavily inspired by his famous banana leaf print wallpaper, striped cabanas, and pink and green color scheme that debuted in 1949. Here, the prints were rendered on a square button. puffer jackets, seersucker shirt dresses and mini skirts. He also reinterpreted the hotel’s famous draped logo into a Maison Kitsune brand, on the front of cable-knit sweaters, totes and espadrilles. The generous use of print hinted that there could be other projects in the works as the brand continues to expand its lifestyle universe. The Le-Tan collection will launch in the height of summer, just in time for pool parties.
Another brand collaboration this season was with Japanese outdoor brand And Wander. Designer duo Keita Ikeuchi and Mihoko Mori brought their aesthetic from their time at Issey Miyake to performance apparel, and here they’re adapted into everyday shirts in specialty materials with hidden pockets for the active urbanite, in shades of light yellow and grey. That collection will drop in January.
Elsewhere, its main studio-designed collection kept its collegiate background and tweaked its logo in collaboration with Rop van Mierlo. The Dutch artist is known for his wet-on-wet technique for painting animals, and he reinterpreted the fox as an abstract on t-shirts. With the various capsules released every two months during the season, Maison Kitsuné offered something for everyone.
LEMPIRE Robin / Courtesy of Maison Kitsune
Majesty
Designer Judith Milgrom was in party mode for spring, inspired by Miami, Florida, and the explosion of color in lightweight clothing. Crochet, fringes, florals – she tapped into all of this season’s trends, including a sheer mesh dress studded with delicate rhinestones. The Y2K vibe that ran strong through several collections was present here, with cargo pants, cutoffs and bucket hats. Side slit skirts are ruched for an added flirty detail.
Some more conservative pieces rounded out the collection, including long jackets and tweed suits, though even these were in mini versions. The boho lace dresses in shades of white and sunset were for the more demure client. Overall, it was a fashion grab bag and Milgrom maintains the distinctive voice of the sexy little sister of the SMCP brands.
Courtesy Maje
3.Paradis
“Women deserve to go to paradise even more,” creative director Emeric Tchatchoua said at the spring launch of his brand 3.Paradis, where totally feminine looks have now been added to his unisex mix of street style.
It’s a little early to talk about how to get to Pearly Gates, but there were plenty of reasons to head to an earthy store shelf with this line of lace dresses, crochet dresses, very short shorts and cropped tops in a variety of ways, all with a bird motif They took advantage of the nude dresses of the season.
An eye-catching standout was a smock entirely covered in cutout birds that ended up looking like a teddy bear jacket. And female consumers may want to choose any of those tailored suits from the men’s side.
Courtesy 3.Paradis
sandro
Sandro, Maje’s older sister, was also in the party spirit, albeit showing a little less skin. Still, she returned to the same trend of colorful crochet and Y2K influences, here in a pink butterfly top paired with cargo pants or in coordinated skirt and crop top versions. The island beat continued with Hawaiian-print shorts and silky print low-rise pants.
Art directors Evelyne and Ilan Chetrite were eclectic with their mix of prints, topping off floral pants with leopard-print blouses. Silver pants added sparkle, while classic tan suits and biker jackets added an entry point for the less daring.
The mixed collection offered more tailoring in its menswear, with fitted suits in light blue and cream, and chocolate tailored trousers topped with copper trench coats, while muslin was interpreted in Cuban collar shirts. Double denim was also in play, notable in an acid-washed lavender that was not for the faint-hearted.
The brand also unveiled its new flagship on the Champs Elysées, a temple of minimalism designed by interior architect Franck Durand for Balmain, Chloé and Isabel Marant. It’s a blank stage for your boisterous collection this season.
Courtesy Sandro
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