Beauty brands are trying to reinvent glycerin

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For years, beauty has experienced countless remote trends. Among them: crystal-infused skincare, 10-step skincare routines, and the rise and fall of “clean” beauty. But now, skincare is going back to basics.

In September 2021, I reported on the rise of products designed for sensitive skin—not a new condition, but one that had been exacerbated by customers experimenting at home with ever-stronger exfoliating acids. Similarly, in March, this newsletter covered the popularity of skin barrier TikTok discussions and the rise of products containing ceramides, another time-tested ingredient that supports skin barrier health.

Now, glycerin is taking a turn in the spotlight. That’s despite the fact that it’s considered an unattractive ingredient that can already be found in countless products you own.

The founders of Experiment Beauty, the Gen-Z-focused skincare brand that launched in 2020, are working to give the PR ingredient a facelift. On November 15, he launched his first topical skincare product, Super Saturated, which is a skin barrier-strengthening serum formulated with 30% glycerin. It is the only serum on the market with such a high concentration of glycerin. Although glycerin isn’t usually mentioned as a featured ingredient, if you turn the bottle on countless personal care items, you’ll notice it’s there. “Glycerin is the backbone of most moisturizing products. Usually it’s under 5%,” said Lisa Guerrera, co-founder and CEO of Experiment.

According to an article in Scientific Spectator magazine, when glycerin is 25-40% of a product, it is a protective barrier and can guard against irritation. “That is one of the main claims we have for this serum – in this range, you can get these unique benefits that only glycerin provides. Hyaluronic acid does not have these benefits,” said Guerrera. The copy on the inside of the boxes the company sent to press and influencers at the serum’s launch reads “Baby Alien Skin, Bottled,” referring to an otherworldly dewy sheen that the sticky, icy-blue serum should give to the skin

In 2020, Harper’s Bazaar published a story titled “Are You Misusing Hyaluronic Acid?” which explains the fact that for some people hyaluronic acid can lead to skin irritation or further dehydration. According to some experts, including the founders of Experiment, glycerin presents a better and readily available alternative. Hyaluronic acid is the standard ingredient used in moisturizing products, or at least the one marketed as the hero. According to data from digital trend-spotting agency Spate, it receives an average of 289,000 monthly searches alongside ‘skincare’ and ranks high in search volume for skincare ingredients, which indicates that it is a main ingredient.

“All of us is that glycerin is better than hyaluronic acid,” Guerrera said. “It has a close to zero irritation profile, where the most recent research on hyaluronic acid shows that low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can be harmful and cause inflammation.”

Dr. Shereene Idriss, founder of the newly launched PillowtalkDerm skincare brand, also praises the ingredient. “Glycerin should reach its peak popularity. It maintains the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy state and helps protect against irritation. It is a powerful ingredient and much more hydrating than other moisturizers,” she said.

According to Idriss, glycerin can travel “deep into the dermis to draw in moisture and allow the skin to plump and hydrate from within.”

According to Emmy Ketcham, co-founder of Experiment and CPO, glycerin was the third most used ingredient in skin care in 2014, after water and fragrances. It was reported in 15,654 cosmetic products.

What Ketcham and Guerrera are doing differently is positioning glycerin as the star of the show. With the serum’s launch, Guerrera hopes Experiment will help rewrite the history of glycerin and change the narrative that it’s a boring ingredient, or one that’s secondary to hyaluronic acid. Retelling the stories of science’s first tried-and-true ingredients is something Experiment will continue to do, Guerrera said.

It’s not easy to formulate with such a high percentage of glycerin because the ingredient becomes sticky with more use, Guerrera said. Perhaps the most famous product with a high percentage of glycerin is Neutrogena’s Norwegian Formula Hand Cream, which contains 40% of the ingredient, although it is not used on the face.

“The reason the hand cream works well is because the glycerin is mixed with a lot of thick butters and waxes that reduce stickiness,” Guerrera said. “But for a water-based serum like ours, it’s hard to make glycerin feel good at that level.” A recent launch from Soft Services focused on body care, a “Rehydrating Skin Gel” dubbed Speed ​​Soak, mentions the use of 6% glycerin.

On TikTok, the hashtag #glycerin has 34 million views. Dr. Idriss has a post where she talks about loving the ingredient for being a “skinny little dog,” again, referring to its ability to penetrate the skin. And according to recent data from Spate, glycerin currently receives an average of 486,000 monthly searches, indicating considerable consumer awareness. Although searches are actually down 13.4% year-over-year, Spate noted that consumers are looking for more questions about the ingredient. For example, “what is + glycerin” has a year-on-year growth of 5.4% and “what does [it do] + glycerin” has experienced a growth of 5.6%.

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Spate Trend Watch: Top Fall Makeup Colors

Unsurprisingly, warm, rich brown tones are all the rage for fall.

Based on data collected by Digital trend spotting agency Spate compares US Google searches from Oct 2021 to Sep 2022 to Oct 2020 to Sep 2021, mahogany is having a moment in the makeup category, particularly in makeup. lip category, followed by iridescent shades.

“A big driver of searches was Dior Mahogany Lip Oilbut Mahogany Nyx Lipliner Y MAC Mahogany Lip Liner they were also popular,” said Yarden Horwitz, founder of Spate.

“However, consumers are also adding a touch of sparkle to their makeup looks, with iridescent, silver and foil products,” Horwitz said.

Spate found that the products they are looking for in the category include LA Colors Holographic Iridescent Lip Gloss, MAC iridescent powder Y Maybelline Master Strobe Stick in iridescent. searches for Almay Velvet Foil Cream Eyeshadow They have also increased since last year.

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Source: news.google.com