Paris Fashion Week has finally come to an end, which means that fashion month for Spring/Summer 2023 is also officially wrapping up. With over 50 shows this week, many of the world’s biggest brands have showcased their latest collections, attracting attendees from all over the world. As the fashion industry evolves into a post-pandemic environment, the bustle of the city returns in full force and style and creative designs continue to inspire high fashion.
This season, PFW saw a rise in impeccable tailoring that was heavily focused on androgynous outfits. Based on the shows featured at PFW, it’s evident that for SS23, the designers are mixing up gender norms more than ever. New York Fashion Week set the tone for well-tailored unisex ensembles with artists like Peter Do and No Sesso. Similar suit motifs continued at Milan Fashion Week with the return of classic Italian tailoring.
Basic formal wear has received a much-needed update in Paris. In recent years, the industry has seen the revival of the pantsuit in womenswear since the days of Phoebe Philo and her Midas touch at Chloé and Céline. Philo spawned a new aesthetic movement that brought clean minimalism with sophisticated silhouettes, introducing a new vernacular version of the modern woman in suit. Nearly a decade later, Philo’s influence has pushed brands to emphasize easy-to-wear, aesthetic-focused clothing that suits all genders. Suits are no longer considered purely men’s clothing, but rather alternatives to everyday wear as well as traditional formal wear.
Gone are the days of tight tailoring as a resurgence of boxy blazers and voluminous overlays take over the runway. The traditional formal archetypes of menswear have collided with feminine motifs like cut-off sleeves, black cut-outs and cinched waists, creating a complete androgynous aesthetic. Botter kicked off the week with heart-shaped lapels on suits, while Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s fashion label The Row defied gender norms with boxy blazers and wide-leg trousers.
Valentino follows in the footsteps with the expansion of its relaxed fit tailoring paired with ruffled sleeves, while Vivienne Westwood and GmBH took a more grunge and homoerotic approach that fuses ’80s rave culture with ultimate formal wear. Male and female clothing were stripped of their gender roles for both collections, with male models wearing a suit and tie consisting of leather shorts, for example.
Of course, you can’t have a conversation about androgynous suits without the mention of Thom Browne continuing to cause a spectacle. Men continued to sport Browne’s signature tailored ensemble that featured traditions subverted with a pleated kilt. The blazers came in a range of pastel colors with structures that did not fit the traditional concept of a suit. Low-rise culottes paired with cropped dress shirts and long blazers injected youthful fun while bringing new heights to tailoring.
As Paris Fashion Week wraps up SS23 fashion month, it has become more apparent that when it comes to suits and tailoring, gender ideologies have evolved and fashion is rewriting the definition of traditional menswear. and woman.
In other moments of Paris Fashion Week, here are the best street style looks and footwear.
Source: news.google.com