“This is an important piece that we’re investing in, you know, as much as we are investing in footwear.”
Finding a bra that fits you can be incredibly difficult, but finding a sports bra that fits you? That’s another pot of fish. Historically, sports science has focused on men, using men and not women in studies, so it’s no wonder a large number of us continue to wear ill-fitting sports bras.
As someone with large breasts, I’ve found it particularly difficult to find a sports bra that doesn’t ride up, cut, or see me spilling out the sides. Molly Polak, Ekin Training and Experience Specialist at Nike, confirms that I am not alone in this.
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“Female breasts and bodies are an area that we don’t know enough about in the first place, but also [we] I haven’t had enough conversations about it, so this whole sports bra thing has been seen as taboo and, you know, traditionally not something that’s been talked about,” she tells me.
Nike is one brand that is addressing this gap in knowledge, investing nearly as much in sports bra research and development as it does in footwear. The implication for women’s performance and comfort in sports and exercise is huge.
“So the investment and research that is going into sports bras right now at the Nike Sports Research Lab is huge…It’s very, very fast-paced in this space the more we learn about the female body, so [we] really focus on it as a brand. This is an important piece that we’re investing in, you know, as much as we’re investing in footwear,” says Molly.
Suffice to say, she knows a lot about sports bras, starting with the reasons we need them. And no, it’s not just sagging.
The problem of bras that do not fit you well
When we think of ill-fitting sports bras, sagging is the first thing that comes to mind, but Molly tells me the issues go beyond aesthetics.
“There is a lot of movement that happens through the breasts and the impact that gravity has on them can be really damaging to the breast tissues, the skin, the back muscles. [and] back. It causes a whole host of problems and can be quite serious. No matter what cup size you are, it’s a huge myth, which is just [related to] the cup size
“The reason that [a] A sports bra is so crucial is that unfortunately breasts, from an anatomical standpoint, don’t really have many built-in structures to support them. So, in reality, the skin is the only type of mechanism that can play a slight supporting role and it is not enough.
“The scariest thing is the damage that can occur around the back and the back of the shoulders and torso. So we have a saying at Nike that is ‘No sports bra, no sport’, because it really is as simple as that. An everyday bra won’t hold up to anyone, regardless of cup size, for the kind of vigorous movement that happens when they play sports. That’s why it’s really important.”
It can also have a big impact on performance: Molly cites a study showing that women who run a marathon distance in the wrong-fitting sports bra are, on average, a mile slower to finish. The problems aren’t limited to large breasts, either.
“So the movement that occurs with an A cup can be just as bad as the one that occurs with someone with a larger cup. It is usually amplified in the larger cup sizes that we consider to be plus. But it can be just as bad for people with smaller cup sizes.”
How do your breasts move?
One of the first things to consider when choosing a sports bra is how your breasts move. This means paying attention to the activity you’ll be doing (compare Pilates to running, for example), but also to your own personal anatomy. Your breasts may sway in a different way than someone of the same cup size. It is one of the beautiful things about the diversity of our breasts!
“It’s kind of a conversation about what’s the purpose of the activity you’re doing because you need different brands [and styles] depending on the different levels of impact. So we always say it starts with a conversation with a purpose.
“Then you try to incorporate, you know, well, ‘What size are you, what kind of sport are you playing? And how do you like to feel when you play sports?’ It’s complex, everyone is different and you can have the same cup size and the same breast tissue and your breasts will move differently,” says Molly.
It also points out the importance of trying before you buy, which means it’s probably best to avoid shopping online unless you’ve bought the style before.
“So ultimately the only way to be sure that the sports bra is right for you is to try it on and go through a few moves to make sure that that bra and the dimension of that material and the way it’s compressing your breasts work for you.”
Once you’re inside the locker room
Ultimately, Molly points out the next five steps you should focus on when shopping for a sports bra.
Step 1: “The first and most important area we want to look at when adjusting your bra is the chest band. So there’s this band at the bottom of every sports bra and it needs to be firm and not restrict your breathing,” explains Molly.
“So it has to be comfortable but sitting well and evenly and we have this two-finger rule that basically means you should be able to slide two fingers under that chest. [area] and you shouldn’t be able to fit in anymore [than that]. Otherwise, it’s probably not tight enough.”
Step 2: “Second, take your two fingers and raise both hands directly above your head; is testing to make sure [the sports bra] does not move and that remains even throughout the area.”
Step 3: “Then we move on to the shoulder straps. Now [take the] same two fingers with those shoulders and straps. It’s really about tailoring the fit. It is important that the shoulder straps do not move. [too much] and that everything is aligned.
“So two fingers below the back of the shoulder. And the reason we do it from behind, not in front, is that you have the collarbone [at the front] which will be created as a natural crack, so you can put two fingers or more on the front,” explains Molly.
Step 4: “This is also a real problem area and we need to make sure that when you look at the glasses, you are filling them without spilling. So you don’t want to have dimples in your bra because that would mean you’re not filling it out and it’s too big. But you also don’t want it sticking out on either side, otherwise it’s too small,” says Molly.
“It’s very easy to take a look at that, just look at it [in the change room mirror] and say [to yourself] ‘Hey, am I filling it?’ You can also fold your hands in front of your chest and lean forward. And that will indicate if you are falling on your arms or if you feel that you are pressing it and there is space between the bra and your breast.
Step 5: “The last step is really just testing, so all you have to do is try to replicate the movements of your sport/exercise. So if you’re running, do a little jogging on the spot or around the store, or if you’re doing CrossFit, do some squats and lunges.
“Really focus on ‘Am I moving too much?’ And once you’ve had the conversation, once you’ve had the education, gone through the adjustment process, women are really good at identifying if they’re properly adjusted or if they’re moving around too much.”
To find out more about Nike’s range of sports bras, head here.
Source: fashionjournal.com.au