Throughout my career in fashion, I have felt every way about what happens on the runway: inspired, shocked, intrigued and even indifferent. But I’ve found that the most pleasurable reaction I can have to any new collection is a deep and true longing to buy. At the end of the day, I’d describe myself as more of a style freak than a fashionista with a capital F, so seeing pieces that make me rethink the way I dress never fails to excite me. And last week, Copenhagen’s Spring/Summer 2023 trends (not to mention street style) definitely found that sweet spot.
For starters, no one does easy, carefree minimalism quite like the Nordic designers: their take is wonderfully simple, not stark, but still a bit fun. Basically, it feels perfect for anyone who wants to look like they’re having an idyllic country getaway to get away for the weekend, without any “cottagecore” or “coastal granny” vibes.
Copenhagen Fashion Week has a reputation for offering new ways to approach this aesthetic every six months, and this season it didn’t disappoint, from Skall Studio’s impeccable eyelet-detailed shirts and cleverly crinkled linen pieces to the line at Lovechild 1979, which placed heavy focus on relaxed cream and khaki partings with an occasional floral print or cornflower blue moment.
That said, while CPHFW’s signature effortless Scandinavian girl of the linen suits and flowing poplin dresses was certainly thriving and present at this season’s shows, so was a edgier new fashion personality. that was worth exploring. This lady wears high-slit skirts with sexy cuts (see Jade Cropper) and bikini tops with her dangerously low-cut jeans (see (d)ivision). What if her knitted dress, an artfully shredded one, of course, turns out to be totally see-through? She is confident enough, thanks to brands like A. Roege Hove, to go braless.
Meanwhile, all kinds of Y2K redux continued to hit the catwalk. Admittedly, I’ve been hesitant about revising the trends I attribute to high school and college, but there have been enough interesting variations on the theme in recent days to make me reconsider. What struck me most about these (many, many) hot moments was that I’ve been seeing glimpses of this comeback for years: Baguette here, capri pants there, but right now it really seems like the proverbial fashion tip. . point/change of scene/whatever you want to call it, from undercover prairie chic to edgy, sultry party mania. I’m intrigued and excited to see how it continues to unfold as we head into NYFW (and fashion month in general) in just a few short weeks.
Within these broader themes, of course, there were plenty of fun trends to try out. Here, I’ve compiled seven that are worth having on your radar.
Lime
Acid green is one of those colors you have to commit to, and committed brands did. From Stine Goya to Baum and Pferdgarten to Gestuz to Samsøe Samsøe, brands have chosen to create striking looks around shade, deviating only for sleek, contrasting shoes. If the hue feels intimidating, take note: Because it’s such a bold choice, you don’t need to do much more than pick the silhouette (or silhouettes) that work best for you.
perfect pairs
Will this be the season designers finally bring gowns into the mainstream? (It’s definitely been seeping into the street style scene.) If Scandi-based creatives get their way, sure. If you want to give the combination a chance, look for wide-leg pants and a straight-cut dress without volume; This is a lot of fabric to begin with, so a loose cut can make it overwhelming. Or, better yet: opt for a set that does all the work for you. It looks like next spring Aeron, Samsøe Samsøe and Lovechild 1979 will have some great ones.
playing dirty
After several seasons of rumors about how to dress in 2000s bubblegum pop, this CPHFW introduced a more subversive spin on the era: think more Christina Aguilera in lace-up flared pants and Coyote Ugly girls dancing in a bar than Paris. Hilton in her rhinestone-studded gown. juicy outfits. And while this take on Hot Rushes apparel still focuses on micro minis and skinny silhouettes, the core details are dirtier: imagine shifting color schemes and lots of leather (or, if you prefer, faux fur).
regina george redux
Apologies for two early 2000s references in a row, but as someone who came of age around the time of the TRL and Razor flip phones, I can attest: styles back then were more nuanced and varied than just minis of denim and blouses to go out. Namely, he was delighted to see a more accessible version of 2000s fashion making a comeback, particularly at Ganni and OpéraSPORT. His myriad of flared jeans, cropped knitwear, bubble-hem skirts, essentially early 21st-century mall girl clothes, are poised to be the new brunch staples of 2023.
pure ambition
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Stay Spring/Summer 2023 James Cochrane
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Soulland Spring/Summer 2023James Cochrane
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A.Roege Hove Spring/Summer 2023 James Cochrane
See-through, well everything has been having a moment all summer. And if the shows in Copenhagen are anything to go by next month, style is here to stay. At A.Roege Hove and (d)ivision, models wore their absolute numbers with nothing underneath, but if you’re attached to your underwear (me, that’s me!), consider wearing a cropped tank top and underwear that cover completely. to Soulland.
moody blues
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Gestuz Spring/Summer 2023James Cochrane
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Stay Spring/Summer 2023 James Cochrane
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Jade Cropper Spring/Summer 2023 James Cochrane
… and pinks and beiges! Really, denim appeared in just about every possible color this week (including an electric green cheetah denim skirt at Baum und Pferdgarten) with the unifying theme of moving from clean finishes to more daring elements. A few worth noting: sandblasted treatments (Ganni and Munthe), aged details (Gestuz and (d)ivision), and acid washes (Jade Cropper and Sunflower).
Don’t neglect your neck
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Gestuz Spring/Summer 2023James Cochrane
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Samsøe Samsøe Spring/Summer 2023Helle Moss
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Saks Potts Spring/Summer 2023James Cochrane
The easiest way to look like a cool girl from Copenhagen right now? Simply highlight the collarbone area with anything other than a necklace. Consider an oversized rosette, as seen all over the Gestuz runway, or a skinny scarf, which, after nearly two decades on hiatus, looks poised for a triumphant comeback.
(To be up to date)
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