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In recent years, New York has emerged as the fashion capital offering emerging designers an important platform, but after this season, it’s clear that Paris has its own share of new talent to showcase. The just-concluded Paris Fashion Week put an unusual focus on young designers, with many new names added to the official calendar. Between shows from major brands, we were able to see everything from recycled beadwork to presentations that bordered on performance art. Here, seven of our favorite emerging designers from the fall 2022 collections.
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Kevin Germanier may have only launched his namesake label in 2018, but it’s already been worn by stars like Lady Gaga, Kristen Stewart, and Björk. His work is recognizable, that’s for sure: flashes of intricate and colorful beads line the surface of corsets and miniskirts. The designer obtains his beads as scraps from other design houses and recycles them into his creations.
For fall 2022, the label presented its first show at the Cristal Room Baccarat, the Parisian flagship of the two-century-old glassware company, a perfect match for the label’s aesthetic. Along with more exaggerated pieces, it also featured sequined dresses, fitted skirts and feathered tops.
In a season where body diversity took a back seat, the creations of Ester Manas stood out. Models of all sizes walked the runway in colorful ruched dresses, skirts and cut-out ensembles and opera gloves.
The label is run by Ester Manas and her business partner, Balthazar Delepierre, who studied at La Cambre in Brussels, Belgium, with Manas gaining experience working for Balenciaga, Paco Rabanne and Acne Studios before launching the brand. Many of her pieces are designed to be one size fits all, meaning they fit European sizes 34 to 50 (approximately US XS to 3XL).
It was definitely the most inclusive show of sizes in Paris, and the brand is currently working to further expand sizes for future collections.
Victor Weinsanto made some of the funniest clothes seen at Paris Fashion Week. Think: colorful jumpsuits, little black dresses with wild headpieces, and sculptural hats that fused the surreal with haute couture skill. No wonder Weinsanto is now under the Dover Street Market Paris umbrella and also nominated for the LVMH Prize.
The theme of this season’s collection was Murder in Paris, and a cast of characters including dancers and friends of the designer walked the show, with Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu (Sylvie from Emily in Paris) closing the show with a hat and a matching dress.
Pressiat exudes gothic glamor in a mix of exaggerated silhouettes that often reference Victorian style. Founded by Vincent Garnier Pressiat, who runs in the same circles as offbeat fashion icon Michèle Lamy, the brand is now in its third season and just keeps getting better.
The fall 2022 show featured body-positive artist Michaela Stark. Other models wore dresses that dragged real hair down the runway, larger-than-life faux fur hats, shield-shaped glasses, and trompe l’oeil body dresses. It all felt very early in the 2000s, meets John Galliano for Dior, just looking to the future.
Founded by Joey Gollish, Canadian brand Mr. Saturday showed up digitally at Paris Fashion Week this season with a focus on vintage-inspired fabrics, oversized silhouettes and stylish tailoring. The androgynous collection was full of streetwear staples for all genders. Gollish was inspired by Kraftwerk, the German electronic band.
This brand is one to watch for outerwear – you only need to look at extreme quilted leather moto jackets, checkerboard Sherpa coats and cognac leather trench coats to see that. On the womenswear side, unusual forms took shape, such as structured evening hoods, crinkled sleeves and suede leather bombers paired with floor-length gowns.
Even if the name MaisonCléo doesn’t ring a bell, chances are you’ve seen the label pieces about your favorite influencers. The slow fashion label makes weekly releases of things like little tie tops with sweet collars, ruffled sundresses and knitwear, all of which feel inherently French. Marie Dewet founded MaisonCléo with her mother and they work together with a small team of seamstresses.
For fall 2022, the designer held her first show in Paris, made up of sheer gowns, chunky knitwear and beach-ready dresses, all handmade and ready to shop on the website immediately after the show.
Born in Lagos, Kenneth Ize is reinterpreting traditional West African fabrics through a haute couture lens. The designer has gained momentum and a small cult following for his work, and it doesn’t hurt that Naomi Campbell has walked her show in previous seasons.
Look to Ize for her structured and colorful outfits, which have become her signature. This season, the designer also began experimenting with other silhouettes and techniques, from knitwear to denim shorts to oversized dark outerwear.
Source: www.harpersbazaar.com