What we saw at New York Bridal Fashion Week

“There is a greater appreciation and dedication to making this special day momentous after so many cancellations,” said Stephanie White, founder and creative director of Odylyne the Ceremony bridal line.

“The energy of excitement for 2022 and 2023 is really big right now and the brides are more daring,” he added.

It was this mood that dominated last week’s New York Bridal Fashion Week, which took place April 4-8 and mostly in person for the first time since the pandemic began.

Like the grander gowns that almost herald “I’m finally getting married after too many delays,” the new bridal collections for fall 2022 and spring 2023 focused heavily on fabrics, details, and new silhouettes.

“With our new collection, we wanted to showcase the craftsmanship behind the dresses,” said Sarah Swann, creative director of Amsale, a bridal atelier in New York City. “There is more haute couture and haute couture-like skill and a lot of tailoring for an exceptional fit.”

Shawne Jacobs, creative director of Anne Barge and president of its parent company, S. Jacobs, also noted that many brides were “more intelligent and more educated in what they wanted.”

Here are some highlights from the latest bridal collections.

Bridal designers made the traditional lace wedding dress fresh and contemporary. In a nod to the grand gowns of decades past (in the style of Grace Kelly and company), long-sleeved tulle bodices with high necklines were hand-embroidered with oversized flowers for a modern look.

“Classic is still very popular,” said Ms. Jacobs, whose new collection featured a high-neck column gown with sequined floral embroidery. “But today’s brides want it more fashionable, to make it stand out.”

Designer Sareh Nouri showed off a taffeta gown with a floral embroidered tulle bodice. Verdin Bridal’s interpretation of this timeless look was a romantic tulle ball gown with a detachable 3D floral embroidered jacket.

Part traditional train and part theatrical cape, the Watteau train added an air of formality with a bit of an edge this season. In minidresses, sheath dresses and ball gowns, the Watteau train was worn attached to the shoulders or on the back of bodices for a grand entrance and then easily removed to transform the look for the post-ceremony celebration.

A fitted flare dress in floral jacquard by Amsale featured a detachable cape by Watteau. Rivini added a detachable floating tulle Watteau cape to a beaded lace sheath. And Monique Lhuillier’s floral embroidered minidress was unforgettable with a matching Watteau train.

The designers also responded to the bride’s request for an equally dramatic alternative to a veil or cape with long streamers of tulle that fall from the shoulders and trail behind a gown. Ines by Ines Di Santo used tulle streamers to enhance a sparkling sleeveless A-line dress. Galia Lahav’s GALA used tulle streamers to drape the long fairytale illusion sleeves. And Watters framed an open V-back in a sparkling tulle A-line gown with ethereal layers of tulle streamers.

The puff-sleeved wedding dress that was popular in the 1980s is back in fashion with a modern update. No longer overwhelming or stark, this cheeky detail adds dimension and movement to a bridal look.

There were removable and removable short puff sleeves in ball gowns, A-line and mermaid silhouettes in a variety of luxurious fabrics, from embroidered silk tulle to light-as-air taffeta. Reem Acra showed off a majestic sleeveless silk fault ball gown with playful puff sleeves. Monique Lhuillier detailed a silk and tulle Juliet gown with a lace-up back and removable puff sleeves. And the billowing Halfpenny London gown in lightweight, packable taffeta (good for a destination wedding) is accented by voluminous matching puff sleeves.

There was a return to strapless styles, too. “More brides want to go back to being bare-shouldered for drama and elegance after two years of not dressing well,” said Sharon Sever, lead designer for Galia Lahav.

Offering the best of both worlds, the designers showcased strapless wedding gowns with detachable long sleeves, detailed with a modern pouf for added measure, as with Lihi Hod’s slim-fitting Silk Mikado gown, Silk A-line Fit and Flare in a Rivini bubble skirt, and Willowby’s satin bodycon dress with a lightly draped bodice.

Brides are ready to party, and dresses with festive feathers or fringes fit that mood. “I think 2022 will bring endless options and brides will go all out in elegant and memorable ways,” said designer Ines Di Santo.

Inspired by the Roaring 20’s, this look works as a bride’s main dress or second look. Ms. Di Santo’s new collection includes an embroidered halter midi dress with a feather skirt. Hermione de Paula presented an embroidered tulle column dress with a dropped waist and long fringes at the hem, while Dana Harel detailed a fitted tulle dress with flirty feathers. And since designers know that feathers aren’t just for adorning a dress, Monique Lhuillier showed off her collection with a statement shoe adorned with delicate feathers that remind me of me.

Pantsuits, pants and jumpsuits were also part of the bridal proposal. “There are so many different types of brides and designers want to show them a new way to dress for their wedding,” said Ms. Swann. “For same-sex weddings or the bride who wants more than one look for her big day, there are so many more options.”

Amsale debuted a peplum tuxedo suit complete with a detachable tulle skirt. Nadia Manjarrez Studio Bridal featured a matte crepe jumpsuit with a light peplum bustier and side leg slits. And Costarellos teamed a polka-dotted fishnet shirt with voluminous sleeves and sleek pants for a look that suits a prenuptial or honeymoon.

Source: www.nytimes.com