Paris Fashion Week: the highlights of the Fall-Winter 2023 men’s fashion shows

Written by Samantha Tzu, CNNParis France

CNN Style is one of the official media partners of Paris Fashion Week. See all coverage here.

The menswear shows in Paris have wrapped up for another season, giving way to a series of haute couture presentations. Despite freezing temperatures and a debilitating traffic strike, the fashion community came out in full force to check out the new collections from some of the world’s leading menswear designers.

This season’s event, which wrapped up on Sunday, offered a number of firsts, including the unexpected debut of Usher’s bright-hued hair and the long-awaited collaboration between Louis Vuitton and KidSuper’s American designer Colm Dillane.

From celebrity sightings to comedy shows and, of course, standout collections, read on for our impressions of the Fall-Winter 2023 shows.

Usher’s new neon style

Usher with blood orange hair.

Usher with blood orange hair. Credit: Pierre Suu/Getty Images

The Grammy Award-winning artist lit up the front row with his new head of flaming orange hair. Usher debuted his neon ombre look on the first day of shows at Wales Bonner and was seen again on Bianca Saunders the next day. In full last season’s runway opening look, his turnout had photographers clamoring for a shot.

Geometry class at Issey Miyake

A dance interlude demonstrated the movement of Issey Miyake's runway clothing.

A dance interlude demonstrated the movement of Issey Miyake’s runway clothing. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Geometric shapes, with a strong focus on triangles, were the starting point and impetus for this season’s Homme Plissé Issey Miyake collection, showcasing the many iterations of how triangles and other angular elements can be twisted and manipulated in silhouettes and complex patterns.

Signature pleats, of course, abounded, from pleated pants to folded details on sleeveless shirts and coats, and larger, looser pleats that fell from the shoulders on nylon outerwear.

The show was punctuated by dance performances that showcased how beautifully the garments moved, as performers moved in and around a light show that featured, you guessed it, more geometric shapes.

Jenna Ortega channeled Grace Jones at Saint Laurent

Jenna Ortega attends the Saint Laurent menswear show in Paris.

Jenna Ortega attends the Saint Laurent menswear show in Paris. Credit: Stephane Cardinale/Corbis/Getty

Jenna Ortega, star of the Netflix series “Wednesday,” stepped out in a hooded, backless black dress for Anthony Vaccarello’s first menswear show for Saint Laurent in Paris. The halter-style dress, from the brand’s Spring-Summer 2023 collection, was reminiscent of Grace Jones’ iconic signature look. Sitting in the front row, the actor was visibly mesmerized by Charlotte Gainsbourg’s piano performance that closed the show.

Rick Owens orthopedic boots

Rick Owens took chunky boots to the extreme in his menswear show.

Rick Owens took chunky boots to the extreme in his menswear show. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Rick Owens is no stranger to flashy shoes – his dizzying Kiss platforms have become a cult item. This season, the American designer channeled orthotic glam with a boot that offered a much thicker leg silhouette, with thick padding attached with buckled leather straps. The most elegant way to recover from a broken foot?

Rosalía rocked Louis Vuitton

Rosalía stole the show on the Louis Vuitton catwalk.

Rosalía stole the show on the Louis Vuitton catwalk. Credit: Stephane Cardinale/Corbis via Getty Images

Spanish pop star Rosalía rocked the roof of the Louvre with her electrifying performance for the Louis Vuitton fashion show, which presented a new collection with its first guest creative director, KidSuper’s Colm Dillane. The artist opened the show in an all-white oversized ensemble and walked the runway carrying a torch flashing the French brand’s iconic monogram before hopping into a yellow car and launching into a performance of her hit “Candy.”

The Fall-Winter 2023 collection featured a mix of elegant tailoring, utility wear, sport-inspired separates and patchwork coats.

Rave culture for adults in Dries Van Noten

A drum performance by the Belgian duo Lander & Adriaan marked the Dries Van Noten show.

A drum performance by the Belgian duo Lander & Adriaan marked the Dries Van Noten show. Credit: Peter White/fake images

Music has always been important to Dries Van Noten. Enthusiastic fans will remember his Fall-Winter 2011 show, soundtracked by specially mixed David Bowie masters. This season, the Belgian designer explored ’90s rave culture with a more adult sensibility. Guests poured into a multi-level parking lot for the show, packed with experimental musicians pumping out smooth techno beats while beer was served from a steel cart. On top, Belgian duo Lander & Adriaan performed what the show notes called “sophisti-rave” on drums and synths. The hypnotic soundtrack set the tone for the new collection that featured flora and fauna motifs, furry clogs, outerwear ranging from tailored coats with a cinched waist to oversized puffer jackets with abstract patterns and roomy cargo pants of the era. from the 90’s

Junya Watanabe reveals collaboration with Palace

Junya Wantanabe collaborated with London-based skatewear brand Palace.

Junya Wantanabe collaborated with London-based skatewear brand Palace. Credit: Misrepresentation/fake images

Known for his extensive list of fashion collaborations, Junya Watanabe chose to celebrate the many brands he has worked with over the years, including New Balance, Oakley, North Face and Timberland, in a predominantly monochrome collection. Also on the runway was the unmistakable logo of Tri-Ferg from Palace, the London-based skatewear label, on a black part-quilted parka jacket. Another first.

The sixties in Kenzo

Nigo's third collection for Kenzo was inspired by The Beatles and consisted of covers of the band's most famous songs.

Nigo’s third collection for Kenzo was inspired by The Beatles and consisted of covers of the band’s most famous songs. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

Kenzo’s artistic director, Nigo, has long been an Anglophile, and his love of The Beatles dates back to at least 1999, when he starred in an Abbey Road-themed cover shoot for Relax magazine. In the show notes for his third collection for the label, the Japanese designer compared the clothing to the famous “White Album,” referencing the eclectic mix of British, American, and, of course, Japanese cultural and style references. Staged in a Parisian concert hall, the show featured a spirited performance of “Can’t Buy Me Love” and “I Want to Hold Your Hand” by the 1966 all-female Japanese quartet. The new Fab Four had the entire concert hall singing and cheering as the models walked around their two violins, cello and piano.

KidSuper finds the funny bone of fashion

KidSuper's trendy comedy show featured a cast of comedians dressed in the new collection.

KidSuper’s trendy comedy show featured a cast of comedians dressed in the new collection. Credit: Ik Aldama

Outside the Casino de Paris, editors, guests and fashionistas were packed like sardines as they tried to get into KidSuper’s “Funny Business” comedy show, hosted by supermodel Tyra Banks. Taking inspiration from Netflix comedy specials, an impressive lineup of comedians, including Jeff Ross, Emmy-nominated actress Yvonne Orji and French comedian Fary, slammed the brand’s founder, Colm Dillane, while wearing the new collection. The theme was tailoring with a twist, from suits embroidered with tailor’s chalk marks to painterly peacoats sprayed with watercolor brushstrokes.

On her unorthodox approach to the shows, Dillane told CNN Style backstage that she wants “something that lasts, that lasts longer than those 15 minutes.”

“I always thought it was a waste of money for something so ephemeral. So, I’m going to create concepts that have legs, and for this show, I thought how cool it would be to do this comedy show that I can keep.” doing, what if next year I do this in New York? And the following year, in another place?

Sacai and Carhartt work twice as long

For Sacai's Fall-Winter 2023 collection, Japanese designer Chitose Abe collaborated with workwear brand Carhartt.

For Sacai’s Fall-Winter 2023 collection, Japanese designer Chitose Abe collaborated with workwear brand Carhartt. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

Japanese designer Chitose Abe teamed up with workwear label Carhartt WIP for her Fall-Winter 2023 collection. It was a playful exploration of Carhartt’s typically straight-forward style, infused with Abe’s uniquely romantic perspective. Pockets doubled and proportions distorted as Abe subverted the brand’s signature offerings, from inside-out parkas with contrasting quilted padding and shearling panels to Carhartt’s iconic Michigan coats reimagined as cardigans. soft with golden buttons.

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