After two years of slowdown, the makeup category is growing again, both in the US and Europe.
“There is a kind of recovery phenomenon,”, explains Mathilde Lion, Europe beauty expert at The NPD Group. “Today, make-up is Prestige’s most dynamic sales category, compared to 2021, with a growth rate of +42% between January and May 2022 in European countries, including the Big 5. [1],” she explains. “However, it is still -23% compared to 2019, so there is still a long way to go.”
a long-lasting color
According to NPD, lipsticks represent one of the most dynamic segments since the beginning of the year, with a growth of +74%, compared to 2021 in Europe. “But it is still 48% lower than 2019, while the nail segment has fully recovered: it has even achieved 5% growth, compared to 2019. As such, it is a change in trend, because previous years to Covid had been marked. due to a sharp drop in this segment,” says Mathilde León.
This growth is mainly due to the share of ‘long-lasting’ products, which are doing well with 60% of lipstick sales, compared to 56% in 2019.
“Nowadays, long-lasting lipsticks are a must, but natural ingredients, symbiosis with skin care and refills are also very strong trends. We’ll see if the recharge concept lasts when the recharge sales stats are meaningful,” explains Mathilde Lion.
The experience of a unique lipstick
At the height of the crisis, innovations in eco-design and customization helped drive these products. At the CES 2021 show, YSL Beautya brand of the L’Oréal Group, presented Rouge Sur Mesure Developed by Perso, the first connected device to create your own personalized lipstick at home. This device makes a lipstick in just a few minutes…
Maison M Paris developed a similar technology: the brand came up with a concept of personalization of a new type that will soon be commercialized. Consumers will choose three shades from the 60,000 available colors, alone or based on an AI recommendation based on photo diagnosis. The three shades will then be inserted into a ‘stick’, so users can simply switch from one color to another, depending on their mood or the occasion. Liquid shades are produced in individual units based on a technology patented by the brand.
“Brands offer infinite colors and 80% of women have more than three shades at home. So, we imagined a system to unite them in a single lipstick. It is more convenient, more environmentally friendly and completely personalized,” He says Maria Rocchisanithe creator of the concept.
The long-lasting, transfer-free liquid formulas of this 3-in-1 product are made from naturally derived ingredients. Each capsule can be filled independently of the others. The Maison M lipstick will be available online for around €49, with a refill costing around €29. In the long term, the founder of the brand plans to install her patented system in stores, where the product will be made to order with the help of a beauty consultant.
Following the same principle, since December 2021, the young independent French brand Bâton Rouge has offered customers to make their own bespoke lipstick at a store. After four years of technical and regulatory development, the brand opened its first point of sale in the Marais district of Paris. With the help of a professional makeup artist, customers can create their own shade from endless possibilities and choose the scent and texture they want for a unique lipstick.
“All shades of color, all shades and shades are possible. Customers can also choose one of five perfumes, all 100% natural and free of allergens, and a texture: liquid, solid, satin, matte or with natural ingredients. The market, in particular the French market, lacked such a concept,” He says Christelle Percheron, the creator of Baton Rouge.
The personalized color is created with the make-up artist during the sampling phase, based on pigments previously dispersed in castor oil. Clients test the sample on their lips and modulate it until they are satisfied with the result.
“We can play with all shades: red, pinkish red, orange or blue, like a painter who plays with pigments to lighten, darken or fade a color.” describes the founder.
Once the choice has been validated, the stick is made immediately, in just a few minutes.
Bâton Rouge has an eco-responsible and transparent approach, with products made to order in its laboratory-store. Solid formula containers are refillable and products are packaged in organic cotton bags as secondary packaging.
“We make products on request, so there is no stock or waste. Our clients come mainly for the experience: for the custom color, the experience with the make-up artist. It is definitely a moment of pleasure for them. And the eco-responsible approach is a real plus,”, says Christelle Percheron.
These new consumption patterns can definitely put a smile (back) on people’s faces!
Source: www.premiumbeautynews.com