Global Beauty Consulting favors complex formulation challenges

In recent years, the Brittany-based GBC laboratory has positioned itself as the privileged partner of brands with expectations that break with conventional approaches. “We have built a reputation for diving into complex territory. We always try to be one step ahead, either in terms of galenic forms or vision, that is, how we want to contribute to the progress of the cosmetics industry”its founder begins, gael boutry.

Gael Boutry has a passion for cosmetic formulation and a taste for challenges: “I am interested in anything that is complex. We’re actually less interested in making yet another anti-aging cream.”emphasizes.

Clean Beauty Generation

This approach seduces many brands, including those of the Clean Beauty generation, eager for new gestures, new galenic forms and formulas redefined by natural alternatives.

“Our clients are mainly emerging brands. GBC’s strength lies in helping them create formulas for which they own the intellectual property rights. In this way, they can start with small series of at least 500 SKUs: the formulas made in France belong to them and they can explore complex territories”adds Gael Boutry.

The support process is global: the laboratory offers its ecosystem of packaging suppliers with similar values, as well as the possibility to benefit from the economic feasibility studies carried out upstream. “From the beginning, the brands are aware of the costs related to development and testing, as well as the ex-factory price. I prefer to reject a project if I think it is not viable”he Warns.

future trends

After several years working on the development of solid productsthe formulator is now focusing on new concepts.

“We did stick emulsions, like Hyalustick, which was developed with Superga and Cosmogen. It is a solid emulsion that requires waterproof packaging. But to me, solid hot pour products like shampoo or make-up remover balms don’t make sense from an environmental point of view. Of course, there is less packaging, but the raw materials used involve very polluting manufacturing processes, high temperatures, then cooling processes… On the contrary, powdered solutions require a cold process and much less energy”he explains.

So, you prefer powders to reconstitute, “as long as we work with people who are perfectly familiar with powder pressing technology”explains Gael Boutry. “But there will be a limit in terms of sensoriality and distribution: there are not many solutions to distribute the powder. With that in mind, we work with packaging suppliers to help them develop tomorrow’s packaging for powder applications, while clearing up all our formulation issues for them.”.

Global Beauty Consulting’s main areas of work also include the use of fermented ingredients derived from upcycling and biotechnologies for convenience raw materials.

“Today, we are still very limited in terms of functional natural ingredients, because biotechnologies are mainly used for the development of active ingredients. Ingredient suppliers will work more and more on this issue, but for me, the right thing to do is also work with biodegradable synthesized products that have no impact on the environment. If everyone chooses the same path, we won’t have enough natural ingredients for everyone.”warns Gael Boutry.

For him, the search for alternatives must take into account the formula/process combo on an industrial scale. “It is good to make beautiful formulas in a laboratory, but it is better not to forget about the process, manufacturing and packaging part”, he concludes. Well, that’s a comprehensive view of the formulation.

Source: news.google.com