Feature · Fashion
Glitz, glamour, and going out: London Fashion Week returns to show business
The UK capital was in full swing again this season, with a packed physical calendar and an electric atmosphere.
Determination was in the air at London Fashion Week as the usual array of editors, influencers and celebrities braved Storm Eunice and some of the highest recorded wind speeds in England, all in the name of fashion. .
Spirits were high, masks were in short supply and shows were packed. More than 50 labels on the show chose to appear in person, with the general theme of many catwalks being to go big or go home. He spoke of a genuine appreciation of the craft and a palpable desire for normalcy.
This year, the designers billed were a mix of new and established talent. Savile Row’s first black tailor, Ozwald Boateng, for example, returned to London Fashion Week for the first time after a 12-year hiatus. But the event skewed heavily towards newcomers: Postergirl and Conner Ives made their runway debuts, while LVMH Award winner Nensi Dojaka presented her highly anticipated runway show, only her second solo show. .
Although there was a healthy dose of whimsy on offer (James Walsh, a Central Saint Martins womenswear graduate, designed a bustier and a pair of shorts out of a tree trunk), the impending lifting of coronavirus restrictions in the UK meant some brands left the daydream at the door and kept an eye on commercial viability.
“When we started making collections during the pandemic, it was all about fantasy,” American designer Michael Halpern told CNN. “And now that we’re back to a collection where some of it will go into stores, you have to take both worlds into account.”
Read on to find out more about London shows.
Next Generation
British designer Matty Bovan, winner of the 2021 Woolmark Prize, created his collection in the United States. Credit: David M. Bennett/Getty Images
Harris Reed was inspired by the royal wardrobe and make-up of the Elizabethan era. Credit: Marc Hibbert
Reed’s designs were “a weirder interpretation of kings…and kweens,” according to the show’s notes. Credit: Marc Hibbert
The absence of fashion week heavyweights Burberry, Victoria Beckham and JW Anderson meant there was ample room for a new cohort of designers to flex their creative muscles. Harris Reed, 25, gave a stately presentation of her new gender-fluid designs in a baroque-style Westminster church, while 2016 graduate Yuhan Wang turned heads in her tasseled leather suits, dresses faux fur coats and the inclusion of her cat, Misty.
Yuhan Wang sent his cat, Misty (far right), down the catwalk. Credit: Tristan Fewings/BFC/Getty
James Walsh produced a set of matching tree trunks for the Central Saint Martins show. Credit: Stuart Wilson/BFC/Getty
life of the party
Whether it’s a rousing orchestral rendition of Olivia Rodrigo’s “traitor” at the Richard Quinn show, a German shoegaze band at Bora Aksu, or a performance by Sam Smith at the Reed set, live music is back in a big way this season. as designers celebrated the return of physical shows after many had gone virtual amid the pandemic. It was the Roaring 20s for RIXO, presenting its new gold collection against the grandiose backdrop of Goldsmith’s Hall, while Conner Ives partyed like it was 1999 with face gems, white plaster concealer under the eyes and silk tops with halter neck .
RIXO hosts an ultra-glamorous presentation at Goldsmith’s Hall in central London. Credit: David M. Bennett/Getty Images
Halpern’s new collection prioritized glitter, sequins and dramatic fringe. Credit: Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty Images
British designer Richard Quinn soundtracked his catwalk with a live orchestra. Credit: Yui Mok
Butterfly brooches, beaded sarongs and face gems gave the Conner Ives show a ’90s feel. Credit: Jeff Spicer/BFC/Getty
This was the American designer’s first London Fashion Week catwalk. Credit: Jeff Spicer/BFC/Getty Images
Richard Quinn’s designs were often larger than life. Credit: Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty Images
Just like Molly Goddard’s signature taffeta ruffles. Credit: Jason Lloyd Evans
Goddard created the perfect party wear for fall-winter 2022. Credit: Jason Lloyd Evans
While Quinn donned fancy evening wear on her head. Credit: Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty Images Europe/Gareth Cattermole/Getty
Bora Aksu staged her runway show inside a fascinating church in South London. Credit: Shane Anthony Sinclair/BFC/Getty Images
group
There were some notable collaborations this season, with London-based brand Roksanda creating a variety of glamping garments with the help of sports brand Fila, including wellies and windbreakers that looked more like ball gowns, as well as a puffer jacket big enough to sleep late. Matty Bovan’s club kid version of Americana also included repurposed pieces from Vivienne Westwood, Calvin Klein and Converse All-Star.
Roksanda collaborated with Fila on a range of glamping looks. Credit: Estrop/WireImage
Matty Bovan recycled pieces from a range of designers in his Fall-Winter 2022 collection. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty
Roksanda made her catwalk inside the Tate Britain. Credit: Jonathan Brady/PA Images/Getty Images
sex sells
Fur was front and center at the Nensi Dojaka show. Credit: NIKLAS HALLE’N/AFP/Getty Images
Similarly, on SS Daley, less was more. Credit: Jeff Spicer/BFC/Getty Images
The Fashion East runway gave new meaning to the term “open shirt.” Credit: Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty
Richard Quinn used latex, dominatrix outfits, and skin-tight silhouettes in his collection. Credit: Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty Images
Rising star Nensi Dojaka successfully forged a seductive winter wardrobe by swapping mesh for velvet at her lingerie-inspired Fall-Winter 2022 show; while British menswear designer Steven Stokey-Daley (of SS Daley) stepped away from his typical output of edgy shirts and Argyle knitwear to experiment with the bare back, literally. One of his most memorable looks included nothing more than a leather vest, black underwear, and a pair of suspender socks.
famous faces
Idris Elba closed the Ozwald Boateng show, held at the Savoy Theater in London. Credit: Richard Young/Shutterstock
“Top Boy” actor Nicholas Pinnock was also on the model list. Credit: David M. Bennett/Getty Images
Irina Shayk strutted down the runway in a hot pink shawl dress. Credit: Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty Images
Lila Moss also appeared on The Richard Quinn Show. Credit: Estrop/WireImage/WireImage
Ozwald Boateng’s historical program was based on a specific type of star power. A variety of black talent, including actor Idris Elba and rapper Dizzee Rascal, appeared in the model lineup in expertly tailored, jewel-toned suits. Richard Quinn also recruited a handful of familiar faces, including burgeoning model Lila Moss, the daughter of fashion royalty Kate Moss, as well as Irina Shayk and drag queen Violet Chachki.
Top Image: Richard Quinn at London Fashion Week 2022.
Source: www.cnn.com