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Every season Copenhagen Fashion Week has a big job to do: as it leads the fashion month calendar ahead of New York, London, Milan and Paris, it sets the stage for the next six fashion months. Only in recent years has the Danish city become a model of innovation and creativity.
This season, Finnish design house Marimekko celebrated its digital show by opening a joint exhibition with Danish photography-based artist Trine Søndergaard. Holzweiler’s imaginative Fall 2022 collection was presented as a short film showcasing emerging Nordic talent. Cozy, minimalist layers, the elements that originally put Scandinavian design on the map, were certainly present at brands like Soulland, Gestuz and By Malene Birger, but color reigned supreme at Baum und Pferdgarten, which layered chunky sweaters in various monochrome combinations. like pink. And red. Iconic brands like Stine Goya, Ganni and Saks Potts also made waves, and newcomers like The Garment, Tomorrow Denim and (di)vision proved that Copenhagen Fashion Week’s Fall 2022 presentation is no sleepover. Instagram favorites like STAND Studio, which turned its faux fur and vegan leather coats into a collector’s item of sorts, returned with even chunkier, more modern styles, while A. Roege Hove continued to prove that it’s possible to reinvent outerwear. knitted as nightwear, changing the entire meaning of an LBD.
Even more: of all the cities that are presented during fashion month, Copenhagen is, in general, the most sustainable. Each participating brand is not only bound by CPHFW’s ambitious Sustainability Action Plan, but has also banned the use of single-use plastic hangers and garment bags, and is committed to offsetting its own carbon emissions by enforcing strict preventative production policies. which are now also supervised. by other Nordic institutions such as the Icelandic Fashion Council, the Norwegian Fashion Center and the Oslo Catwalk, further cementing its place at the top of the fashion world’s notes.
Here are the biggest moments from CPHFW, including the marks to watch out for before their inevitable meteoric rise.
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Holzweiler’s head of design, Maria Skappel Holzweiler, not only had some fun ideas for the fall 2022 collection, but also had a complete vision. The brand presented the gender-agnostic collection as a short film starring young Nordic talent as they embark on a fictional road trip from Oslo to a Norefjell mountain cabin.
“Sometimes clothing requires the right context, and sometimes great clothing requires an actual backdrop,” Holzweiler said. “That’s what we’ve given this collection, something real.”
The result? Imaginative, well-tailored layers (think: a padded quilted leather vest buried beneath a suede camel coat; a recycled knit dress paired with a chunky logo scarf and Moon Boots) that evoke Nanook at its most stylish. The entire collection feels less traditional après-ski and more alternative snow bunny.
Malene Birger creative director Maja Dixdotter knows why we’re all here: the brand’s clever take on contemporary minimalism always manages to excite even the maximalists among us. For fall 2022, that meant tactile nubby knits in creams and beiges, floaty resort-ready dresses, and textbook hygge separates that were the unmistakable stars. In short, it was everything you’d want to use in a Scandinavian utopia.
The track’s “meandering path” was intended to evoke the duality of fluid movement on a winding path, piquing our interest in what is to come.
Always a favorite for the most cheerful show of the week, Ganni presented its fall 2022 collection through a live concert by Danish artist Jada. (The brand’s spring 2020 show, the last live runway show before the pandemic, ended with a rainy dance party led by Copenhagen pop star MØ.) This season, Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup drew inspiration from early ’90s indie music; PJ Harvey, which came in the form of dazzling separates, feminine accessories like laces and bows, and snakeskin suits.
While much of it was meant to evoke the carefree spirit of the quintessential MTV video girl, there were also plenty of practical options. At least the Ganni girl still knows how to party.
In the age of ubiquitous influencer collaboration, it’s hard to find a new collection that feels decidedly fresh, but Sophia Roe, who teamed up with Designers Remix veteran Charlotte Eskildsen to launch The Garment in 2020, is nailing it. Even more, she’s just doing what she does best: traditional Scandinavian minimalism. The brand’s hallmarks include tailored suits, sleek knitwear and separates that are made to be mixed and matched in the name of timelessness.
This time, The Garment’s timeless approach translated into a feminine scalloped neck over a perfectly demure wool miniskirt; a soft knit midi dress in cool charcoal grey; and a cable knit sweater that was made to be half tucked in.
Fashion has long been captivated by the idea of traveling to other worlds, but it hasn’t always been as literal as it was for Henrik Vibskov’s fall 2022 show, titled Library of Micro Selves. An examination of the uncertainty of the future, the collection and ensemble played with lunar elements and later juxtaposed utility with protection in the form of life jackets secured at the waist and balaclavas intended to offer warmth and preservation.
And just when you thought there were no new silhouettes to make, Vibskov ditched Moon Boots, a big trend for the upcoming season, for moon shoes, which lace up and secure at the ankle. Layers of plaid wool cocoons offset bright, clingy pleats and the occasional tailored suit to complete the futuristic and experimental collection.
In keeping with the recent obsession with space travel and frigid temperatures, Baum und Pferdgarten opened its fall 2022 show, presented in front of a looming winter moon, to the sound of footsteps walking through frozen snow.
Designers Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave called the collection Pursuing Polaris, marked with puffer-collared puffer coats, knit balaclavas and tweed-skirted suits that evoked none of the traditional working-girl vibes. Sure, there were separate pieces appropriate for skiing, like pinstripe blazers, shiny metallic puffer jackets, muddy base layers, and padded pants, but this display seemed less made for the slopes and more appropriate for a festive chalet party.
As a nod to CPHFW’s commitment to sustainability, Fassbender showcased his Fall 2022 collection at the Zalando Greenhouse, a move that recognized the importance of responsibility within the industry, which he matched from the inside out. The brand also created fabrics from raw materials like cacti, a new alternative to leather, sugarcane leather and recycled wool, and experimented with technology like 3D printing to offset traditional production costs.
While the collection began with a nod to traditional Scandinavian dress with a black and white palette along a smoky runway, it eventually gave way to layers of bright reds and electric greens in the form of a roll neck dress, a dress oversized cable knit. sweater and a tight pleated dress finished off with a belted camel jacket.
Filippa K is known for masterfully fusing traditional Scandinavian minimalism with rich, striking colors and textures, and the brand’s Fall 2022 collection was no different. The final season before Liisa Kessler takes over as creative director, the brand showcased a faithful mix of monochromatic separates that celebrate Nordic winters, like a ski-ready puffer jacket that was teamed with a crop top and shorts, or Forest green padded pants that might be court-appropriate if it weren’t for the chic knee-length side slit. A faux fur vest, which the brand paired with sequin pants and leather gloves, was an unexpected highlight that hinted at more nightwear in the brand’s future.
Of course, there were certain looks, like a buttery black leather jacket and pants ensemble, or a slouchy V-neck sweater, that felt less imaginative and more like, well, more of the same, but we’re quickly reminded that it’s all in execution. There’s a reason Filippa K is quickly becoming a household name: no matter how you put it, everything is so easy to use.
Catherine Saks and Barbara Potts are no strangers to having a good time. Designers aren’t one to shy away from a theme, either, and for fall 2022, it’s clear the Saks Potts girl is ready to go out again. The brand presented its show in Copenhagen’s modern opera house, a prestigious backdrop for its colour-blocked tank tops, floor-length snakeskin jackets and pants with asymmetrical cuts and piping at the hips. Still, there were also options for the museum visitor: a baggy gray heather turtleneck sweater belted and paired with a midi skirt in a similar muddy hue; a rose-embellished top was offset by a low-waisted rainbow belt.
While tame leather toppers were a far cry from the feathered outerwear that put the brand on the map, it’s clear that Saks Potts knows what it’s doing: re-acclimatizing us to the outside world without forcing it. We’re not quite ready for all the glam yet.
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Source: www.harpersbazaar.com