Petsch at the Dior show: “I want to wear everything”
Claire Foy and Cara Delevingne attend Dior’s Spring-Summer 2022 Haute Couture show in Paris, where model Jeanne Damas and actors Madelaine Petsch and Rosamund Pike marvel at the collection. (January 25)
access point
PARIS (AP) — Dior’s affirmed feminist designer Maria Grazia Chiuri used the male gaze, as reflected in female oil portraits throughout the centuries, to make a fashion statement about empowerment and subjugation. of the woman.
But Tuesday’s spirited ready-to-wear display in Paris, set in the splendid Tuileries Gardens, was also just a beautifully conceived collection, one of the Italian designer’s finest, serving to kick off Fashion Week in Paris with a strong creative base.
As editors entered the unveiling of countless masterpieces, many expressed relief that the French government has ruled that face masks are no longer mandatory at fashion shows.
Yet despite the moments of glamor and optimism, the conflict in Ukraine was still not far from the minds of fashion insiders, and the Paris Fashion Federation offered a rare statement in support of freedom.
Here are some highlights from the fall-winter ready-to-wear shows.
Paris Haute Couture Week: Dior takes center stage, Cara Delevingne draws anger for going maskless
Dior makes its history
An installation of Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece “Lady with an Ermine” hung at the entrance prompted fashion insiders, including pop star Rihanna, model Elle Macpherson and tennis player Maria Sharapova, to enter the venue to discover wall to wall paintings
Although at first the art seemed more at home in the nearby Louvre Museum, on closer inspection the female models sported jarring contemporary double eyes and seemed to symbolize a kind of new feminine vision.
This, the work of contemporary Italian artist Mariella Bettineschi, was Chiuri’s starting point, one she used with flair to explore and deconstruct historical women’s fashions. The corsetry, the jacket of the 1940s (the house’s signature), as well as the transparent capes reinvented the codes of yesteryear. But this time for Dior it was all about protection or armor against the world.
Gucci and Adidas team up for Milan Fashion Week: ‘Stripes and lines are incredible symbols’
Head hanging combatively, the first model sported a fierce, minimalist black body suit with white lines, both as a skeleton and as a cut pattern. The bright multi-colored leather gloves evoked the shape of 18th-century elbow-length styles, imagined in contrasting biker styles with padding at the knuckles.
A silver bar jacket had dark sports ribs. The corset-like tops had closures made from plastic toggles, in one of a multitude of fashionable touches. A black pierced corset was stiff and impenetrable.
There were plenty of perfectly executed moments, some of which even evoked a Japanese warrior. Chiuri was trying to say: Women have been subjugated for so long, so now we’re going to wear those same clothes to empower ourselves.
But one question is on the minds of fashion critics: is Dior’s obsession with history perhaps a sign that it can’t leave its heritage behind to embrace a new fashion aesthetic entirely?
Bella Hadid walks the Fendi catwalk Capasa returns to Milan Fashion Week
Thoughts for Ukraine
It’s the elephant in the room at Paris Fashion Week.
While the bombs are falling in Europe, what is the justification for exclusive fashion collections with perfume floating in the air? There are none. However, the Paris fashion body has tried to address this thorny point with a statement sent to the AP of solidarity with Ukraine.
Ralph Toledano, president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, said that “the great fashion family gathers for Paris Fashion Week, the war has brutally hit Europe and plunged the Ukrainian people into fear and agitation”.
He suggested that the show continue as the creation itself is “based on principles of freedom, under any circumstances. And fashion has always contributed to individual and collective emancipation and expression in our societies.”
The federation issued a warning: to “experience the shows of the next few days with solemnity and as a reflection of these dark hours.”
milan fashion week continues under the shadow of the Russian attack, revealing Prada designs, more
The stars come out for Off-White
The death of respected American designer Virgil Abloh last year still casts a shadow over the Paris fashion industry.
Since his death in November there have been two fashion tributes to him at Louis Vuitton, where he was a menswear designer: the first in Miami and the second during the men’s collections in Paris. On Monday night, his personal brand Off-White showed off his fall-winter show, but it seemed to be more of a celebration of him than anything else.
The posthumous show designed by him was titled “Spaceship Earth” and, in keeping with the interstellar theme, the stars appeared in constellations: A$AP Rocky, Rihanna, Idris Elba and Pharrell Williams, to name just a few.
Signature hoodies, urban cargo pants, utilitarian buttons, fluorescent colors and bold branding were here in droves, often in black and set against a giant chandelier décor.
Virgil Abloh, Pioneering Louis Vuitton director dies after private battle with cancer at 41
But there were also bittersweet moments that seemed to reference the designer’s private battle with a rare form of cancer.
Bags with the print “more life” and one filled with red and white pill capsules came out.
Louis Vuitton honors Virgil Abloh while presenting the designer’s final collection at Paris Fashion Week
Botter’s recycling
Could there be a more eccentric way to kick off women’s ready-to-wear than a topless male model slinging a bright blue faux-fur chair across his back? Probably not.
That was thanks to former Nina Ricci designers Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, the lauded menswear designer duo, who are a breath of fresh air.
The designers, who grew up in the Caribbean, like to celebrate everything that people throw away.
Recycled plastics found in the ocean were envisioned here as fringe on a dress resembling an apron or as decoration on a polo shirt motif. Vivid hues evoking seabeds and hats resembling jellyfish continued the theme.
Upcycling was also, as always, a big topic with strips of fabric used to make a rugby shirt.
Fendi brings feminine silhouettes to Milan Fashion Week, Machine Gun Kelly headlines Dolce & Gabbana
Saint Laurent Art Deco
Antony Vaccarello explored the geometric universe of Art Deco on Tuesday night for a rare show that strayed from channeling the designs of the house’s founder, in favor of its interior décor.
Yves Saint Laurent, who died in 2008, was said to be a devotee of the famous art movement of the 1920s that combined modern geometry with rich materials.
And yet the designer never used styles much to inspire his fashion shows; instead, he looks at choosing her to furnish his Parisian residence.
Here, Vaccarello fixed this.
The 40-year-old Belgian designer presented a Saint Laurent show drenched in this form-rich movement, seen on the catwalk in front of the glittering Eiffel Tower with mounds of gold, silver and bronze bracelets, sharp V-necks or thick, angular shoulders. . that was descending
Contrasts, like a sheer panel on a flowing black dress that exposed the nipple, created sensual tension, as did a sleek yet flowing tuxedo jacket (the house’s signature) against a bare chest.
Source: www.usatoday.com