MILAN — Matthieu Blazy’s debut at Bottega Veneta and Trussardi’s new course under the creative direction of Serhat Işık and Benjamin A. Huseby of GmbH are just a few of the events circled in red on the Fashion Week calendar. of Milan, which is officially celebrated in February. 22 to 28.
This season is expected to mark the return in full force of physical fashion events in the city, as the schedule unveiled on Tuesday includes 57 IRL shows out of a total of 65 shows, as well as 69 presentations, 59 of which will be organized in person.
In addition to Bottega Veneta and Trussardi, Gucci will return to Milan as part of the official calendar, having experimented with digital formats and, more recently, moving to Los Angeles. Instead of its traditional Wednesday schedule, the Florentine fashion house will present its show on Friday, February 25, the same day that Versace will present its exclusive collection for women, as the Medusa brand decided to change the mixed format from this year. .
The Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani brands will also return to physical format, after Armani gave up its menswear shows in Milan last month, as well as its Privé show in Paris, due to the rise of the Omicron variant.
Diesel will hold his first physical show under Glenn Martens on February 23, followed by the Fendi show. On February 24, the day of the Max Mara, Prada and Moschino shows, the Plein Sport brand will be relaunched with a runway event to be held in the historic palace that Philipp Plein recently bought in central Milan to establish a hotel. branded.
While Salvatore Ferragamo will skip the show format in favor of a February 26 presentation, Ferrari will head to Milan to present its second collection under the creative direction of Rocco Iannone after the unveiling presented in Maranello on last year.
Palm Angels will also return to Milan, while Ambush and Aniye Records will present their shows in the city for the first time. Up-and-coming Italian brands are also stepping up their game by switching from presentations to shows, including Andreādamo and Cormio, among others.
Key presentations will include the collaboration between Max&Co. with Efisio Rocco Marras and the “Habito” project by Weekend Max Mara by Patricia Urquiola, as well as the relaunch of the Balestra brand.
Events range from the Bulgari B.Zero1 Aurora awards organized with Vogue Italia at Bocconi University to the screening of the documentary “Elio Fiorucci — Free Spirit” at the Triennale museum, which has been postponed since last month for security reasons.
Presenting the rich calendar that shows a total of 169 events, the president of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, Carlo Capasa, expressed confidence in the attendance at the shows and the general state of the industry.
According to preliminary figures presented, in the first 11 months of 2021, sales of the fashion industry (including textiles, clothing, leather goods and footwear) grew by 20.8 percent compared to the same period in 2020. The sector in general (including fashion, jewellery, glasses and cosmetics) registered more than 83,000 million euros in sales in 2021, 20.9% more than the previous year, but 7.8% less than in 2019.
“We have recovered two-thirds of what we lost during the pandemic, €16 billion of the €24 billion. We now expect to recover the remaining €8 billion this year, returning to pre-pandemic levels one more year than anticipated,” Capasa said.
According to preliminary data, in 2021 the exports of the sector in general increased by 21 percent to almost 68 billion euros. In the first 10 months of 2021, fashion industry exports to China, the US and France grew by 50.1%, 32.8% and 20.6%, respectively. The United Kingdom was the only country among the top 10 Italian fashion export destinations to record a negative trend, with a decrease of 18.3 per cent.
As for the sector in general, in the same period, exports to the United Arab Emirates, Turkey and the US reported increases of 103.2 percent, 76 percent and 57.9 percent, respectively.
Fashion operators from these countries are expected to attend the Milan shows, along with buyers and press from Russia and “even South Korea and Japan,” Capasa said.
International assistance will be boosted by the government’s decision to accept fashion operators immunized with vaccines not recognized by the European Medicines Agency, including Sputnik V. During fashion week, these operators will be able to obtain the reinforced Green Pass necessary to access events with a negative PCR test that must be performed 48 hours before arrival in Italy and every 72 hours during your stay in the country..
According to Capasa, buyers from China will be the only missing group. To this end, the Italian fashion camera has partnered with Tencent Video to increase the visibility of the shows there.
Capasa also presented the updated protocol signed by the chamber and the municipality of Milan, further strengthening their partnership for the next three years. One of the key themes included in the agreement, the promotion of young talent, will be taken up during Milan Fashion Week.
Opening the event, the We Are Made in Italy collective, or WAMI, will highlight five Black, Indigenous and People of Color talent. Featured designers will include Sheetal Shah; Judith Borsetto; Nyny Ryke Goungou; Zineb Hazim and Romy Calzado.
As reported, the fashion chamber and Valentino have partnered on a project that each season will allow a young guest designer to present their fashion collection on the Rome-based company’s Instagram platform. The first designer chosen for the initiative, Marco Rambaldi, will unveil his latest effort on February 23.
Other initiatives will include the new “Ethical Fashion Designers” project showcasing brands that shine a light on women victims of violence, migrants and refugees; the fifth edition of “Designer for the Planet” highlighting five sustainable labels, and Budapest Select promoting seven emerging Hungarian brands, among others.
Source: wwd.com